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Thread: Isuzu Torque

  1. #11
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    Cutters !-90 deg. Ford 9" . !-60 deg does Isuzu 28s . LR 23s and the tool steel on mandrel is a form cutter for LR 10 spline .The brazed tip is 90 deg what we used to use 40 years ago ( can't beat insertable tips) .The plate has index holes for direct indexing 10 ,23 ,28 ,31 and bolts to a 3 or 4 jaw chuck and the work set up on centers.Any other oddball splines I use the dividing head but is a pain in the arse compared to direct indexing Heat treatment is a black art well beyond me


    Noel
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  2. #12
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    Mine will NEVER suffer the indignity...

    Because it is STILL in the shed!!😢😢
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  3. #13
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    That broken axle has done over 100000k it was the spare I carried for my 428 cj and c6 in the series 2 and never needed a Slushbox is abit more forgiveing so be brave and get it outa the shed

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Thanks AM.

    As an amateur I would be keen to see a few shots of your spline cutting, particularly what you use to do the spline (make cutter yourself, buy from somewhere, single cutter, multitooth form). And will you do the hardening yourself or farm it out?

    I enquired after some EN26 and was told it could be bought tempered through (no matter how deep you cut it was tempered) - all you had to do was cut your splines, then surface treat the splines as you suggest to harden them for wear.
    Set up to cut 23 spline en26
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  5. #15
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    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    You have got all the gear Noel. I'm jealous!!!
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    Set up to cut 23 spline en26
    Much appreciated.

    The set up in your picture is new information/food for thought - the index wheel supported mid shaft between two centres. Up until now I've always pictured a peg and index contraption supporting one end of the the job and a single centre support at the other.

    More pics...

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Much appreciated.

    The set up in your picture is new information/food for thought - the index wheel supported mid shaft between two centres. Up until now I've always pictured a peg and index contraption supporting one end of the the job and a single centre support at the other.

    More pics...
    One pic as you are describing and another useing a simple bush with 3 lock screws .I try to use between two centers as you can remove to measure ,check for fit or turn it around to do the other end and it goes back perfectly indexed by just releasing the center

    AM
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner View Post
    One pic as you are describing and another useing a simple bush with 3 lock screws .I try to use between two centers as you can remove to measure ,check for fit or turn it around to do the other end and it goes back perfectly indexed by just releasing the center

    AM
    I have a horizontal/vertical mill about 800kg, but yours is a monster by comparison! The drive shafts for the cutter on mine are slightly bent (poor heat treament?), so I get deep then shallow cuts as it goes around - the only complaint (so far) that I have about the Chinese made machine - not sure what I'll do to fix it. Hafco don't keep spares and would have to get something made by their suppliers. Might try straightening it with some heat one day, when I'm game.

    I appreciate what you say about working between centres, not that I have, but I have thought about getting a dog clutch for the lathe face plate and giving it a go.

    Got hold of an old KAO MING surface grinder up here, some diamond wheels with it. Unfortunately one centre was missing. The other was driven so hard into the holder that when heat and pounding got it apart the taper was seen to be ruined. It and a Douglas shaper are on my refurbish list.

    Given you are FNQ how do you keep the rust at bay on the milling deck? Constant use? Aircon? Sleeping on it I wipe and use light oils but the brown staining is always there.

    Was also wondering how you get your tolerances, or what you prefer for a tolerance, assuming you go for some sort of slide fit with no noticeable movement. You creep up on it with several cuts per tooth? Confident the cutter is spot on for one cut? Or not too concerned, one cut and let oil deal with any slight movement or spacing?

    If you're ever inclined to put up photos I'd be interested in how you form your own cutting bits for spline cutting, if you do. Hand ground against a template, or constant checking against the part to be matched, shadow graph? A faceting type machine?

    Guess I've used my quota of questions for now!? Oh, and do you know anything about milling plastics...

  9. #19
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    Been busy The broken one was 4340 thru hardened and was made for the rebuild same time as the first axle .50000k The twisted one is the axle I made for the TBD locker EN 26 as supplied and nitrided .A real seniors moment I was more concerned with keeping it straight and didn't do the sums 150 K at most Just as well I only run 8 lb of boost


    AM
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  10. #20
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    So whats the plan?
    Different material? Different heat treatment?

    Love the machining porn too - is that a Pacific mill?

    Steve
    1985 County - Isuzu 4bd1 with HX30W turbo, LT95, 255/85-16 KM2's
    1988 120 with rust and potential
    1999 300tdi 130 single cab - "stock as bro"
    2003 D2a Td5 - the boss's daily drive

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