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Thread: Front prop shaft and lift confusion...

  1. #11
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Total disclaimer for responsibility here................ I thought the out of phase thing was one tooth in the sliding joint. Others will know.

    I've had both props in phase with a 2"lift, front had slotted swivel balls, no vibes.

    Got a Def or County front diff in now with Maxi everything and the front arms that came with it, that unfortunately have correction bushes.

    Vibrated like all ****, so I put the front shaft out of phase by one tooth which kinda fixed that.

    The snout of the front diff points down because of the bushes which increases the angle on the TC end uni joint as well as the diff end, which also meant I couldn't use the stock crossmember. Just a crap set up compared with what I had with slotted swivels.

    DL

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Total disclaimer for responsibility here................ I thought the out of phase thing was one tooth in the sliding joint. Others will know.

    I've had both props in phase with a 2"lift, front had slotted swivel balls, no vibes.


    DL
    Oh oh, I thought it was 30°?? Front prop shaft and lift confusion...Front prop shaft and lift confusion...

    I've always just marked and reassembled as it came apart.

    Funny little aside.
    An old mate of mine is a very switched on engineer who also worked for JRA as an engineer on the Perenties.

    Back in the nineties he had a 110 with the 4BD1 and had no idea why he had a front driveshaft vibration until an old mechanic told him he needed to run the front shaft out of phase! Front prop shaft and lift confusion...Front prop shaft and lift confusion...
    Another time I walked into the workshop and picked up a totally trashed uni.
    "How many km's since you last greased that?"
    He couldn't remember. Front prop shaft and lift confusion...

  3. #13
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    Worth a shot, I’ve seen some docs that says 30 degrees out of phase and some that says 45.

    I’m not to keen to start slotting hubs, I don’t want to mess around doing anything that needs an engineers certificate.

  4. #14
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    Just on the height issue, so I can confirm how much of a lift I've got before I start buying new springs, could someone zip out to their Land with a tape measure and just give me the hub centre to lower lip edge of the flare lengths ?

    Mine are Front left and right 540mm, rear left 532 mm and rear right 545mm Greatly appreciated.
    IMG_0077.jpgIMG_0078.jpg

  5. #15
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    From the man himself:

    Ride Height

    The best way to measure your lift is to measure your spring heights with the vehicle parked on level ground, measure from top to bottom of the rear of the front spring, and the same for the rear spring,with quality springs you will find that the drivers side is always slightly taller.

    STD 90/110 FRONT SPRING measures 260mm +/- 5 mm
    The REAR SPRING should be around 300mm +/- 10mm

    STD Disco/RRc FRONT SPRING measures 250mm +/- 5 mm
    The REAR SPRING should be around 300mm +/- 10mm

    These measurements are what i have taken over the years to calculate what lift you have got or haven't got.

    From the standard measurements you can calculate what lift you have got.

    Hope this will help what you need.

    GWYN LEWIS

  6. #16
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    Great, thanks Gwynn. Sensational stuff, that’s what I needed

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