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Thread: 12 volt or 24 volt start

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Still sorting starters.
    Tried Sheldons one but the solenoid sticks out further than my 24 volt one and fouls the chassis. Remember this is a series not a Perentie.
    It also had a 32mm pinion not a 35mm that my 24 volt one has.
    I would really like a gear drive like this one. but its 24 volt only.
    Starter Motor for Isuzu NKR200 NKR57 NKR58 4BB1 4BC2 4BD1 4BE1 Diesel 24V | eBay
    That would get the pinion above the chassis.
    There are 12 volt gear drives for Holden Jackeroos etc with the same mounting but the only have a 32mm pinion even though 9 tooth.
    I wonder if pinions can be swapped from 32 to 35.
    Do you know if that jackaroo starter is the same as the diesel rodeos? I have a rodeo one sitting around, and the 4bd1 2bolt as well, I can see if the pinion can be interchanged

    1981 Series III 109 3.6L ISUZU 5 speed (in a million pieces getting a rebuild)
    1976 Series III 88 for spare parts (gone)
    1960 series II 88 Chassis (start of restoration project, eventually)
    1964 Series IIa 109 (under restoration)

  2. #32
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    or leave the starter there, put in a 12v battery to run the ignition and lights and bits an pieces you want on 12V and buy 2 of

    DC-DC Boost Buck Step Up Down Converter Module 3.3V 12V 24V Solar Charger Power | eBay

    them.

    configure them to charge the 12V battery from the 24v battery or vice versa depending on if your running the 12 or 24v ignition and electrics.

    Its one of the few times a DC-DC charger is the appropriate answer to a battery question.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by paulthepilot_5 View Post
    Do you know if that jackaroo starter is the same as the diesel rodeos? I have a rodeo one sitting around, and the 4bd1 2bolt as well, I can see if the pinion can be interchanged
    No I havnt actually seen one to compare.
    The others seem to vary by how much the solenoid sticks out to the side. Most are too far. My 24 volt one the solenoid is close, but just far eno to get the top bolt in.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    or leave the starter there, put in a 12v battery to run the ignition and lights and bits an pieces you want on 12V and buy 2 of

    DC-DC Boost Buck Step Up Down Converter Module 3.3V 12V 24V Solar Charger Power | eBay

    them.

    configure them to charge the 12V battery from the 24v battery or vice versa depending on if your running the 12 or 24v ignition and electrics.

    Its one of the few times a DC-DC charger is the appropriate answer to a battery question.
    Yes Dave I am thinking leave the starter 24 volts. Its over 3KW and the others are just over 2KW.
    I bought a 12/24 volt series parallel switch but gave up on it because of the complicated wiring. Thinking about going back to it.
    I think Dougal and Bush kept theirs 24 volt.

    Keith

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Yes Dave I am thinking leave the starter 24 volts. Its over 3KW and the others are just over 2KW.
    I bought a 12/24 volt series parallel switch but gave up on it because of the complicated wiring. Thinking about going back to it.
    I think Dougal and Bush kept theirs 24 volt.

    Keith
    you dont need it.

    if the 24v is only going to run your starters grab a pair of n45's put em in series hook em to the starter. use a 12v relay to drive the 24v to the 24v aux solenoid and thats your 12v starter system.

    wire about 7-10A of dc dc 12-24v charger(s) on a DPDT isolation realy in place via either a VSR driven relay or an igntion switched source and viola your set.

    if you do it by a vsr charging all of your batteries becomes as simple as putting on your existing 12v charger on the 12v system.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Re the 12 volt alternator. I took my 24 volt in to my sparkie as he said he could find a 12 volt one. Seems its not easy.
    Does anyone have a part number etc of the 12 volt one that bolts straight up?
    I have been trying Sheldons number but no answer.

    PS I gave him the number in the parts reference thread but he cant match it.
    Still have not got an alternator yet.
    This ex NPR 4BD1 I have has 80mm between the alternator legs. The one in my 110 is 100mm and the spare in the shed is 100 mm. I had not noticed this before.
    I thought then I would swap the alternator mounting bracket over to get the easy to find 100 mm one to bolt up but the mounting holes on the block are different. The timing covers are different as well.
    It seems there are a few differences in 4BD1 block castings over the years
    Another thing. The thermostat housing on the spare and the one on my 110 is offset to the right of the tappet cover. The one on this engine I am working on is in line directly to the front of the tappet cover , with differences in the ports for heater pipes etc.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Still have not got an alternator yet.
    This ex NPR 4BD1 I have has 80mm between the alternator legs. The one in my 110 is 100mm and the spare in the shed is 100 mm. I had not noticed this before.
    I thought then I would swap the alternator mounting bracket over to get the easy to find 100 mm one to bolt up but the mounting holes on the block are different. The timing covers are different as well.
    It seems there are a few differences in 4BD1 block castings over the years
    Another thing. The thermostat housing on the spare and the one on my 110 is offset to the right of the tappet cover. The one on this engine I am working on is in line directly to the front of the tappet cover , with differences in the ports for heater pipes etc.
    Hitachi LR170-401 is the 12V 70A one that is one the army motors Keith. From memory I think they are the 100mm leg spacing. Any sparkie or Ashdown/Ingrams should be able to cross reference that number. I'm sure you could modify the mount to fit. The thermostat housing offset differences are between industrial and automotive applications, and are not interchangeable because of bolt spacings and numbers where it bolts to the head. I have some new industrial ones like on the army 4x4 motors if you need one.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bearman View Post
    Hitachi LR170-401 is the 12V 70A one that is one the army motors Keith. From memory I think they are the 100mm leg spacing. Any sparkie or Ashdown/Ingrams should be able to cross reference that number. I'm sure you could modify the mount to fit. The thermostat housing offset differences are between industrial and automotive applications, and are not interchangeable because of bolt spacings and numbers where it bolts to the head. I have some new industrial ones like on the army 4x4 motors if you need one.
    Thanks Brian . my sparkie is still looking.
    So which is which re the thermo housings, I thought all mine were ex NPR?

    Keith

  9. #39
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    All the automotive ones I have seen have the thermostat housing on the RH side or in the middle of the rocker cover. Industrial engines like in the army 4x4 have the thermo housing on the left side.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

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