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Thread: PIGLET...

  1. #61
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    [QUOTE=67hardtop;2942784]Ok finally got to take couple pics Brian. Hope these are ok. You can buy the cable that fits the switch but it's for a series 3 diesel and is 18" too short for Isuzu stage 1. I bought a length of outer cable from a bike shop and used the inner cable of a universal choke cable. I swapped the cable ends over to the new outer which I lengthened an inch or so over the original as it had been cut off at some stage. Then I removed the inner cable from the knob end which is about 9mm thick and about 90mm long. I drilled out where the original cable was squashed in so I could fit the new cable and squashed it again to secure it. Then I fitted it and adjusted to stop the engine. All good. Now when ignition is switched off you can't remove the key unless the stop cable is fully out. See pics. Will look different once the column covers are on of course. Cheers, Rod


    Thanks Rod, I have never seen an ignition lock with the stop cable attached like that before. Great setup!!!!
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  2. #62
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    Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable. Cleaned up the inside of the air filter housing. Unbelievable amount of dirt and filth inside it. New filter that was very hard to source and now ready to be fitted when it's time. Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section. Can't find what caused it to melt, tho there was a scotch lock fitted to it from the melt point. There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now. Fun. I don't like wiring repairs. Gotta do it. Cheers

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable.
    Someone glued carpet to the padding in my series 3, so I recovered it with black vinyl from the local textile/sewing/fabric shop. It was pretty straight forward, just glued one end with sikaflex and the front end is held on by the re-usable metal clips. It just takes some fiddling about. Great end result though.

    dashpad.jpg

    Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section.
    From my experiance, this colour means hi beam headlamps. This wire goes from the indicator stalk on the steering column to the hi beam bulbs.

    There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now.
    White is usually ignition power on, so this is important to fix too!

  4. #64
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    Little update.. wiring harness repaired and refitted...sort of. Upper dash refitted and lower dash heater box section repaired and new foam seals fitted to flaps and freed up. Just needs to be refitted and that will happen when the harness is resecured. Just need to repair the front section of the harness with the alternator wiring and ignition relay. Big heavy duty relay that is fitted to the inner guard, and sort out the starter solenoid wiring. Fun fun fun. No pics coz it's dark atm and I've been on a club mystery drive today. Hmmm. Cheers

  5. #65
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    Got the dash in today and wired up. Need some screws that hold the cluster on. The two chrome ones with the stepped head. Can't find any here. Weren't there when I got the piglet. Just need to sort out the starter and alternator wiring and redo the headlight wiring onto the relay box that's fitted. It was working b4 I pulled it apart. New washer pump and a couple hornet get fitted. Might put them on a relay too. Plenty to go yet...

  6. #66
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    Today I managed to fit the lower dash and the corner wiper cover. I also fitted the upper corner piece on the left side. I fitted the heater control and cables and the cover too. Fitted the steel dash stiffener strip above the column. I'm going to have to remove the cluster again and protect the wiring a bit better to avoid rubbing problems. And have to check if I've got the ignition switch wired up properly. Still got to sort out the charging system wiring which also supplies the power connection to the internal wiring as well. Have to remove the starter motor to wire in the start relay to the starter solenoid and power supply. Then sort out relays for both beams and washers and horn. All on the same wire harness that route behind the air cleaner bracket from bottom of column to left front of piglet.

    Couple pics, and a fat supervisor sleeping too...lazy old bugger PIGLET...PIGLET...PIGLET...

  7. #67
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    Today I managed to remove the damaged guard from the left side. I need to get this off to access the starter motor and wiring. Seems the starter wiring has been arcing on the chassis as the main power input terminal is extremely close to the chassis rail. I'm wondering if the mounts have collapsed as I know the g box ones have. Will take it to a sparky I know to find out if I can reverse the terminals so the main power wire is away from the chassis. The bolt can then be shortened. Need to replace the outer guard as it's damaged. Need to remove the washer bottle and pump. Also the starter relay which powers all accessories and relocate the dual headlight relays. All the bolts are very difficult to get too and damaged. I might try replacing them with rivnuts and bolts. Then I can test the wiring after I repair the melted supply wires from the starter motor. The PO played with it and fitted 4mm wire when the main harness wire is 8mm into the ignition switch from the start relay. Anyway time for dinner.

  8. #68
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    Today I got some time and removed the old relays and washer bottle and motor. Separated the outer guard from the rest. Lots of strengthening braces fitted to stop the guards from cracking due to vibrations. Works mostly. Couple cracks have been repaired in strange ways. Couple more to repair and a few broken pop rivets to be replaced. Will fit less damaged s3 yellow outer guard tomorrow after I remove it from the inner bits. Then I need to sort out what I'm going to do about the starter motor. The power lead is very close to the chassis. Seems the engine mounts, tho they do look ok, are very expensive, they're the same as perentie, but gearbox mounts are $10 each. Will get them done. I want to drive piglet to the first club meeting of this year. I've set myself that goal. See if I can get it done. Cheers

  9. #69
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    I removed the yellow outer guard of a s3 wing and trial fitted it to piglets wing. Fitted ok. Fixed a couple cracks up with some rivets. Replaced a few broken rivets with bigger rivets. Gotta get some plastic to put between the guard and wing. Cheers

  10. #70
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    One of your pictures reminded me of a serious issue I had with my 110. You have a heavy earth wire across the LH engine mount. Make sure it is in good condition, and neither loose nor with oil on the contact surfaces. On my 110 this was responsible for endless starter issues until I tracked down the real problem.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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