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Thread: PIGLET...

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hay Point
    Posts
    3,958
    [QUOTE=67hardtop;2942784]Ok finally got to take couple pics Brian. Hope these are ok. You can buy the cable that fits the switch but it's for a series 3 diesel and is 18" too short for Isuzu stage 1. I bought a length of outer cable from a bike shop and used the inner cable of a universal choke cable. I swapped the cable ends over to the new outer which I lengthened an inch or so over the original as it had been cut off at some stage. Then I removed the inner cable from the knob end which is about 9mm thick and about 90mm long. I drilled out where the original cable was squashed in so I could fit the new cable and squashed it again to secure it. Then I fitted it and adjusted to stop the engine. All good. Now when ignition is switched off you can't remove the key unless the stop cable is fully out. See pics. Will look different once the column covers are on of course. Cheers, Rod


    Thanks Rod, I have never seen an ignition lock with the stop cable attached like that before. Great setup!!!!
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,589
    Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable. Cleaned up the inside of the air filter housing. Unbelievable amount of dirt and filth inside it. New filter that was very hard to source and now ready to be fitted when it's time. Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section. Can't find what caused it to melt, tho there was a scotch lock fitted to it from the melt point. There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now. Fun. I don't like wiring repairs. Gotta do it. Cheers
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    32
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    Today I got a bit motivated and cleaned up the crash pad. It's cracked but I'm still using it. I fitted it and the support panel with the vent levers on it. Looking good. Might glue some dash carpet on top make it presentable.
    Someone glued carpet to the padding in my series 3, so I recovered it with black vinyl from the local textile/sewing/fabric shop. It was pretty straight forward, just glued one end with sikaflex and the front end is held on by the re-usable metal clips. It just takes some fiddling about. Great end result though.

    dashpad.jpg

    Started to strip the harness to trace the melted wire in it. Blue with white trace. Headlight supply wire I think. About 4mm cross section.
    From my experiance, this colour means hi beam headlamps. This wire goes from the indicator stalk on the steering column to the hi beam bulbs.

    There is another white wire with damage but that's next in line now.
    White is usually ignition power on, so this is important to fix too!

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,589
    Little update.. wiring harness repaired and refitted...sort of. Upper dash refitted and lower dash heater box section repaired and new foam seals fitted to flaps and freed up. Just needs to be refitted and that will happen when the harness is resecured. Just need to repair the front section of the harness with the alternator wiring and ignition relay. Big heavy duty relay that is fitted to the inner guard, and sort out the starter solenoid wiring. Fun fun fun. No pics coz it's dark atm and I've been on a club mystery drive today. Hmmm. Cheers
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,589
    Got the dash in today and wired up. Need some screws that hold the cluster on. The two chrome ones with the stepped head. Can't find any here. Weren't there when I got the piglet. Just need to sort out the starter and alternator wiring and redo the headlight wiring onto the relay box that's fitted. It was working b4 I pulled it apart. New washer pump and a couple hornet get fitted. Might put them on a relay too. Plenty to go yet...
    Cheers, Rod


    BETSY
    1967 Series 2a. 109 4 cyl petrol, Fairey o/drive, Athol Hedges roof.
    Currently undergoing rebuild.
    Will have-- soft top, 4 wheel disc brakes, salisbury rear diff, military colour, 12 pin nato socket, dual pintle hitch....

    1975 Series 3. 109 6cyl 186, 5 speed Nissan cabstar gearbox, mechanical winch, roo bar, kings awning, 50" light bar, roof rack, twin 6"light bars, kings awning tent.

    1969 NO. 5 trailer. ARN 176 464. soft top.

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