PIGLET...

Thanks John, I will do that. I had a mate call me the other day about a '62 FFR that his starter just stopped working. He said he jumped the wires on the button and nothing. Battery was good. Told him to put one of his jumper leads from neg to engine block. He said the earth wire is ok. It looks good. It's the woven type wire. Vehicle was converted 30 years ago to neg earth. Long story short, he didn't believe me so when his legacy mate went there first thing he did was run a jumper lead to the earth on the motor. Fired straight up. Earth lead was toasted inside the crimped clamp. He rand and apologized. Cool bloke. His name is Zoom Strange. Hmmm.

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

One of your pictures reminded me of a serious issue I had with my 110. You have a heavy earth wire across the LH engine mount. Make sure it is in good condition, and neither loose nor with oil on the contact surfaces. On my 110 this was responsible for endless starter issues until I tracked down the real problem.

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Been a little while native finally fixed a couple crackes in the LHF guard. I've put mastic in the joint and bolted the outer guard on. I've fitted the complete guard on now. I removed the radiator grille surround and bolted the front bumper on. Refitted the surround. Today I was fiddling around with wiring. Got brake lights and rear tail lights working. Got front packers working too. Head lights are working but got to swap the left and right beam wiring over coz I got one high and one low beam on and vice versa. Just gotta swap two plugs over. And change one globe. RH indicators working. LHF indicator not working. Hope it's just an earth. Can't get wipers and washers or heater fan working. Seems like there's no power at the fuse box. Prob got a plug wrong. Didn't get to fixing this as the smoke started to escape from near the ignition switch. Pulled the battery wire off. Removed the lower dash panel now and took off the ignition switch. Problem I have is my wiring diagram doesn't show terminal numbers on it for diesel. I used the s3 wiring diag. for the lights and the rest of the stuff coz they had terminal numbers for wire colour codes on it but ignition switch is totally different. Will have to sort it. Was cranking over and starting b4 the smoke got out then it stopped cranking. More bloody problems. Ah well. The fun of land rover repairing.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...f9d8cadee4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ec831db2ff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...4c58b2a817.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...70f6bf3788.jpg

Today I decided to find out if I got the ignition wiring wrong or did some other thing wrong. Took the ignition switch electrical backing off the ignition lock assy. Tried the switch wiring. All good. So I tried to turn it over with a screwdriver. All working as I thought it should. So I put it back together. I noticed that the key wasn't turning the switch far enough. So I investigated further. Seems the steel shaft that turns a small aluminium adaptor which fits inside the electrical switch, which is turned by the ignition barrel is badly worn. Too much slop. So I pulled the ignition lock apart. I might be able to drill a small hole in the barrel housing where the steel shaft fits in, and tap a thread in it and fit a small grub screw to stiffen up the shaft and basicly stop it sloping around. Why, you say? Coz you cannot buy a replacement ignition switch for a diesel stage 1. The replacement switch assy doesn't have a stop cable lock. An ADR requirement for this model. I've found a NOS one in UK. £450. plus postage etc etc. Over $1000 plus charges etc. Lucky for me, I've found a replacement switch from a long standing member on here. If I stuff mine up now I will have a replacement. Or at least I'll use the replacement one if it's better than mine, which it probably is. Land Rovering fun to the MAX!!
Cheers

Gday Rod
A fine looking machine in progress.

Have you looked at the early county ignition switch as an option? Without connecting the shut down. Probably have.

Ok I had pulled the switch off and apart. I bought some 4mm grub screws and a thread tap to suit. I've fitted the steel shaft and turned it to get maximum twist of the shaft to actuate the ignition switch properly. I've checked it over and drilled a hole in the Internals of the lock assembly and also into the steel shaft, making sure it's located correctly. I've tapped the tiny thread and screwed the grub screw into it and then checked it. It works. So I've locktited the grub screw into place, re assembled and lubed the lock and refitted it. Tested it. Great. It works. So happy. Steering column locks and the stop cable locks in the off position too. Great. Happy with the result.

Excuse my ignorance, but whats the stop cable lock?

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Originally Posted by Vern

Excuse my ignorance, but whats the stop cable lock?

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To meet ADRs, late model Series 3 diesels are required to have the engine set up so that it cannot be started or run without the key. With a pull to stop on the Series 3 diesel engine, this means the pull to stop knob must be locked by the ignition switch, in the off position.

That's spot on JD. If the stop cable isn't locked out, the vehicle, if parked in gear, could roll and start and basicly drive off on its own. You don't need a battery to start an old diesel engine.
Cheers

Hmmm, my county had a push button on the dash to start it ( no key needed) and a pull stop cable under the dash. I have since converted it back to key start, and pull cable to stop. But theres no possible way to lock the cable.
I think i need pictures of how this works

Sounds like it would be easier to install an EDIC system similar to the Perentie.