ChatterBox
I'm going to put an Isuzu J series engine in a series Forward Control project I've just started. Probably a 4JH1 from a 2005ish DMax/Rodeo.
One has come up locally with 330,000km on it. It can be heard running before purchase. What should I be budgeting for before I used it in my new build? Just take head off and inspect, check mains, rebore/rings?? Service the injector pump?
I realise it a bit of a "how long is a piece of string" type of question, but I'd appreciate some knowledge or advice....
Thanks.
RoverLord
compression test, flip it and reseal the crank, check and replace the shells check and replace the injectors new oil new filters
probably in the order of $700 in parts to do that.
IF the compresisons low do a leak down if its rings give it a rebuild. pobably $2k in parts.
but how much are you expecting to do with the 101? if you're not going to do 100K in 10 years with it you'd probably get away with the cheap option.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
Thanks Dave. I'd forgotten about a compression test. Do you test it wet & dry as you would a petrol engine?Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
RoverLord
noooooooo.....
compression ignition......
compression the gauges can handle, combustion pressure not so much.
you can do cold/hot but thats easy to eyeball on the startup smoke.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
I meant dry cranking to test valve sealing. Tip in a teaspoon of oil, then retest by cranking to test ring wear/sealing.
Wizard
If you put a teaspoon of oil in, it will ignite on the first crank.
RoverLord
I know what you ment, thats why I said
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
ChatterBox
Thanks Dave. Not a 101, one of these. I
Fossicker
Awesome! Do you know what year it is? Looks like a 109 FC 2A (long bonnet was the early models?)Thanks Dave. Not a 101, one of these. I
Fossicker
I'm no expert, but if it's timing belt you would change that otherwise I wouldn't touch anything.
I've had a 4bd1t that was sitting for years and it's been fine without touching anything.
Electronic injector pump that's pretty modern for a 109FC!(everything is modern for a 60's car lol! why not stick to analogue injection? I drove a rangie once with the 2.8, it was a bit gutless compared to the 3.9, but it did the job just fine.)
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