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Thread: 4BD1 - Stage 1 Crankcase flooded with Coolant

  1. #11
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    they can be gotten with a 12point style crows foot.


    https://www.amazon.com.au/Stanley-Pr.../dp/B001HWE9CA

    the pumps not that bad to take off, pull the timing cover pull the engine around until the mark lines up with the timing point and then paint pen and scribe the mounting flanges.

    takes about an hour to pull the pump off, and you'll appreicate the space and opportunity to gurney the block... the gurney will also quickly get rid of unwanted sludge.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  2. #12
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    Well, Pump is off - as is oil cooler.
    And the news isn't good.
    IMG_3365.jpg

    I was expecting to see a hole in the oil cooler and there didn't appear to be one - so I pressure tested it.

    IMG_3370.jpg

    and it held 75 psi just fine with the valve shut.
    So I dropped the oil out of the sump again - thinking I would plug the coolant holes in the side of the block started putting some water back in the radiator.

    But before the water level got anywhere near the coolant holes in the side of the block - it started streaming out from the crankcase from below/around No 4 Piston - above/over the big end.

    IMG_3372.jpg
    So not sure if I buggered up the leak down test and I do have a failed liner or - perhaps as also suggested - rusted through somewhere in there.

    So by this time I'm pretty unhappy and it's getting late and cold and there is water and sludge everywhere again so left it alone for a bit.

    When I get a chance I'll see if I can have a better look at where the water is coming from.


    Adrian

  3. #13
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    Hi

    Just an update. There has been progress happening.

    I found the exact spot it is leaking - through the liner on Cylinder No 4.
    About 5mm up from the base of the liner is a rough spot - which turns out to be a hole which the water runs freely out of.

    Water_Leak_Cylinder4_IMGP0581.jpg


    And a slab has been laid in the apron in front of the garage bay so I will be able to move an engine crane / etc around.

    IMG_3379.jpg

    I have spoken to Justin Cooper who pointed me in the direction of the machinist (Phil Young) who I've spoken to.

    So once the slab has had a chance to harden a bit will pull the engine out and go from there.

    Cheers,


    Adrian

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Unless I am mistaken, these are (supposed to be) dry liners, which means there is a hole in the casting behind it - and has presumably rusted through the thin liner. (there would be no compression or combustion pressure on the lining this low. I would guess there is a casting fault and it has taken this long to rust through.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
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    Wow!
    That must be a first. Is there no way of sealing the hole with epoxy, sealer, solder, weld?
    Good luck with it.
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  6. #16
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    Since the hoole is in an unstressed part of the liner, something like that would probably work - provided that the hole in the casting is behind it. On the other hand, it could be a cracked block, and this is just where the liner rusted through. At a minimum I would want to pull the liner and see what the situation was. If it is a small casting fault, as I would suspect, this could be repaired and the liner replaced, but you really want to be sure that is the situation.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #17
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    pull the liner and inspect the face of the land....

    if its a rust through or casting porosity you can emery it and then build it up with silver solder before having the bore machined back to round.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #18
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    Hi.

    Been meaning to update. I have appreciated the feedback and advice.
    The motor is out and with Phil Young Engineering. Justin recommended them as the go to guys for rebuilding and repairing motors.

    So just awaiting feedback from them.

    4BD1_IMG_3395.jpg4BD1_IMG_3396.jpg

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  9. #19
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    Hi.

    Just an update. Apparently the water jacket has corroded through to the liner on all 4 cylinders. Though only through the liner on number 4.

    So the fix is apparently to bore the block out for a new sleeve on each cylinder to replace the water jacket- then bore the sleeve out to fit a standard liner.

    The cost by the time that is finished and the motor rebuilt is a bit eye-watering - around $7k.

    Don't suppose anybody has a half-decent 4bd1 sitting around!??

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  10. #20
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    4BD1 - Stage 1 Crankcase flooded with Coolant

    $7k is over the top IMO.
    By the sounds of it you only need the block
    I would imagine these should be available from owners who have worn out or damaged motors.
    Why don’t you try a post on some of the numerous Perentie forums?
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

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