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Thread: 4BD1 - Stage 1 Crankcase flooded with Coolant

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    26

    4BD1 - Stage 1 Crankcase flooded with Coolant

    Hi

    A routine trip to the shops in the Stage 1 was rudely interrupted today when it decided that all the coolant belonged in the crankcase.



    IMG_3335_sm.jpg
    IMG_3337_sm.jpg
    IMG_3338_sm.jpg

    The vehicle has a low coolant alarm fitted which went off which was the first indication something was wrong. Upon investigation it was leaving a trailer of oil and water slurry behind it coming out of the breather pipe and has helpfully coated the underneath of the vehicle with the muck.

    It became quickly evident that it was very efficiently pumping the water into the crankcase. The motor sounded normal when I last shut it off.

    Grumbles (The Stage 1) is in the shed now and I have drained the oil. A quick initial inspection with a magnet of the tub of goo has returned no metal bits.

    I've had a search of the forum and I can't see anybody encountering a similar issue.

    I am assuming at this stage that I've well and truly blown the head gasket. I don't think there is any other way of the two fluids mixing??? (is there a welsh plug behind the water pump or something - not sure. ?? ) There is muck in the radiator as well so the oil is getting into the water galleries also.

    so at this stage I am thinking:

    i) Check the slurry for metal bits more thoroughly.
    ii) Drop the sump and check and clean.
    iii) Assuming I haven't found the big end bearings in bits or similar - Remove the cylinder head and see what I can see.
    iv) Get the Cylinder head to the machinists for a tidy up and machining if necessary and
    v) put it all back together with the necessary gaskets.
    vi) Flush the engine with some cheap oil and change immediately. (and flush the cooling system).


    I would be interested if anybody has encountered similar issue to this or has any thoughts on how best to deal with this.

    Thanks.

    Adrian

    (Margate - Tas)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,521
    block oil cooler perforated would be my guess so id be leaving everything else alone until you do a pressure test on the cooling system.


    my method would be to fill the cooling system with dye coloured water then pressureise to 15 psi with the sump plug out.

    if it leaks out of there the next step is to pull the glow plugs and do a compression/leakdown test

    that will get you closer to an answer. its pretty rare for these engines to do the headgasket or suffer a head failure.

    you could have unseated a liner or had a rust through on the block at the bottom end.

    the oil cooler is mounted in the block on the RHS in a removeable panel under the inlet manifold
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Hay Point
    Posts
    3,967
    Oil cooler would be my guess too.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    24,641
    Same here.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    26
    Thanks.

    I hadn't even considered the oil cooler. So really appreciate being pointed in that direction.

    I don't need to pressure test to 15psi! - I took the radiator cap off and with the sump out the radiator simply emptied itself via the sump plug without any pressure needing to be applied. See video!

    YouTube

    Haven't got as far as a compression test - been cleaning goop up off the driveway. Did pull the oil filter.

    IMG_3340_sm.jpg

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    24,641
    My feeling would be to pull the oil cooler as being perhaps easier than running a compression test - and more likely to find the problem.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,521
    Quote Originally Posted by Aryoch View Post
    Thanks.

    I hadn't even considered the oil cooler. So really appreciate being pointed in that direction.

    I don't need to pressure test to 15psi! - I took the radiator cap off and with the sump out the radiator simply emptied itself via the sump plug without any pressure needing to be applied. See video!

    YouTube

    Haven't got as far as a compression test - been cleaning goop up off the driveway. Did pull the oil filter.

    IMG_3340_sm.jpg
    thats most likely to be the cooler, I still recommend that you do a compression/leakdown test as that will help eliminate the potential of a liner issue. but I strongly recommend pulling the sump to degunge it and conform its not the bottom of a liner cracked away from the block.

    the modification to your leakdown test will be doing it with the cooling system open and draind. If you have that goo in the radiatior as well the pipes hoses and radiator (inc heater) will want to be flushed
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    SW of Geelong
    Posts
    2,361
    If it is the oil cooler, at least there’s a good chance it will be a fairly easy fix.
    If you shut it down quickly, hopefully it will just be a case of new oil cooler and a good flush.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab

    Rijidij Off Road


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Posts
    26

    Update!

    Hi. So I've done a leakdown test - I had to make a tester and a wrench for the crankcase nut (couldn't get either locally / quickly) all cylinders are holding pressure and I've taken the sump off, cleaned it out and looked at the base of the liners. To my eye they look ok.

    I've got the sump back on temporarily at the moment and it's got about 6 litres of cheap oil in it - been turning it over by hand and using a large syringe to suck out grey crap from the Oil Filter housing.

    I believe I have to take the fuel pump off next to get to all the bolts on the oil cooler. If there are any tricks to that - happy to hear them. I have got a number of manuals so need to read them - I've had a bit of a skim - but not across how I maintain the pump timing yet.

    I am a bit concerned about how I flush the grey crap out of the motor - It's is very sticky and I am a bit worried about it blocking up oil galleries and holes and not wanting to break down quickly. I would expect I would be doing a number of quick oil changes.

    IMG_3349.jpgIMGP0564_Cyl1.jpgIMGP0567_Cyl2.jpgIMGP0569_Cyl3.jpgIMGP0571_Cyl4.jpgIMG_3346.jpg


    There was a tiny bit of metal in the sump. Photo is with a bic pen for comparison.

    IMGP0575.jpg

    Cheers,

    Adrian

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,521
    to clear the sludge use ATF, cheapest stuff you can find fill the sump let it run for a few minutes and do it again. once the sludge is down to a minimal level (grey sludge) put in a moderate engine oil with a high detergent additive. run that and get the engine up to temp for about 20 minutes or so, take the rocker cover off and watch whats going around.

    I've been known to do an on the fly change by tapping onto the filter drain bung filling the engine with new oil as fast as it was being pumped out of the tap. (kmart cheapest oil on the planet is great for this)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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