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Thread: Let the fun begin 4bd1 to r380 in defender 130 twin cab.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Let the fun begin 4bd1 to r380 in defender 130 twin cab.

    After months of waiting for conversion parts they finally arrived. In the next month or so I will be doing the conversion myself with help from mates. I will post some pictures as it gets done. Unfortunately it will take awhile as i work full time and can only do occasional weekends and an hour or so every other night.

    Anyway: Day one 4bd1 engine fitted left hand engine mount bracket to engine using original bolts had to put an extra washer under the head. Fitted aircon bracket from KLR. Easy job hardest part was running a tap through the bolt holes to clean them up. Bloody humid in Townsville .

    The next hurdle and i reckon the hardest part of the whole conversion is removing the spigot bush housing to fit the modified one to suit the r380. At this stage we will make a simple puller using 3/4 threaded bar weld nut to housing and using spacer to wind it out. Another method mentioned is drilling the mount putting in a grease nipple and hydraulically push it out using grease. This will be a last resort unless some can confirm there is a recess behind the bracket and crank i dont feel like drilling holes in it. A picture would be good. I have seen the posts in good oil as well. Baz

  2. #2
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    Day 2

    The next hurdle and i reckon the hardest part of the whole conversion is removing the spigot bush housing to fit the modified one to suit the r380. At this stage we will make a simple puller using 3/4 threaded bar weld nut to housing and using spacer to wind it out. Another method mentioned is drilling the mount putting in a grease nipple and hydraulically push it out using grease. This will be a last resort unless some can confirm there is a recess behind the bracket and crank i dont feel like drilling holes in it. A picture would be good. I have seen the posts in good oil as well. [/I]


    Well as above it took more time to set up welder then remove. 2 x 3/4 zinc nuts, 2 x 3/4 washers, 1 x 24 inch 3/4 zinc booker bar . $13.00 bunnings.

    10 mil plate with 3/4 + hole, length of pipe, supplied by mate. One large shifter and bobs your uncle. Crank bolt 41 mm 3/4 socket to stop rotation of crank. After first rotation of nut wound out with little to no pressure. Refitted new spigot carrier and bush tapped it in using the old 4 by 2 as a drift.

  3. #3
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    How is the conversion going ? Success ?

  4. #4
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    https://utreon.com/v/YRDvEhdu41U

    It's also on YT but I can't find it atm. Mike does what you are doing.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    ​Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  5. #5
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    Nov 2007
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    Stanby waitout.

    I cracked under the pressure ( had some spare cash) and lashed out on a turbo kit from down south. Just awaiting it to arrive i am guessing March and then will plan 7 days straight for the conversion. My plan is day one remove old radiator including air-con components, motor and everything else. Day two, with box in situ, remove and refit mod bell housing. Offer up 4bd1/t mark up and remove engine weld in engine mounts. Depending on time bolt it all back together engine box. Then 3 days for reassembly and getting various hoses made . I currently have everything to assemble it, nuts bolts washers. Baring any unforeseen issues it should be good go. Biggest issue is its my daily driver so cant have it off road for to long.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    It has arrived and oops started.

    Engine has not been fitted up yet but Turbo Kit arrived from down south. I made the mistake of opening the box . 3 hours later its mounted up. Manifold and turbo mounted, oil feed and return fitted up. cross over pipe and air intake loosely fitted, will remove and hard fit when engine in the bay. Tomorrow modify air filter, Then that's it for a week or so.

    1. Instructions supplied clear and concise. All items fit as per supplied.

    Exhaust Manifold tips. The bottom nut on number three is fiddley to get on. I followed instructions loosely fitting nuts to allow access to start. Now trying to get a spanner in to tighten it is a nightmare. My solution and it worked a treat, I removed engine cover where engine breather large pipes goes in just above started motor. 2 bolts and a tap off it comes. With this removed i was able to access the nut with a thin open ender and tighten it up. I recon it added 10 minutes to the process. No other real dramas.

    The supplier requests that not to much specification information on kit be handed out. I will respect this and not supply any specifications on an open forum. I will update on any handy hints that i discover on my journey. Baz

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    More progress

    Over the last few evenings approximately 2hrs each night things have progressed.

    Radiator, intercooler and aircon components removed. Aircon pipes the biggest pain, p clamps galore. Tag and remove disconnect all wiring and fuel pipes. General preparation for engine removal.

    Tonight remove engine, bit of a mission by yourself but do able. Using jack to support gearbox, will sort something out tomorrow.

    Friday evening plans are change clutch master cylinder, been weeping for awhile. Then move onto removal of bellhousing and refitting KLR modified one.

    Standby for further updates. Baz

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Townsville Nth Qld
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    Bell housing.

    This evening i removed the r380 bell housing in situ, and did a dry run on fitting the KLR conversion bell housing. It fitted up no worries, well made and tight tolerances.
    I have to modify a 18mm or get a stubby spanner to tighten supplied stud access is hard but not doable. (tomorrows job). The original M12s holding the r380 bell housing on appear to have been Loctited and required a gut busting effort to manually remove. My 24v rattle gun which has never let me down did. Of course i cant find my bottle of medium loctite so will get another.

    Hint of the day only use single hex sockets. There is far less chance of rounding off the bolts/flange nuts. Since adopting this approach have not rounded of a bolt for years.

  9. #9
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    Nov 2007
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    Bell housing engine in and secured.

    Sunday: with the help of two mates. Motor mated to bell housing without clutch components fitted secured by 4 bolts. Fitted quality engine mount bracket to chassis supplied by Ridji, after bolting them to engine mounts spot welded to chassis. Removed engine leaving chassis mount in situ. My mate (boiler maker)
    then welded them in properly . then fitted up clutch plate and bell housing internals. Refitted engine and dropped back in .

    Basic tools required. Time from start to finish 4 hours. Don't get excited , plenty of minor stuff to go . Wiring using the 300 tdi wires, cant see an issue. just a pain in the arse. sourcing power steering hoses and plumb it up. As i broke my alternator pully (dont ask) and cant source a second hand one will bite the bullet and buy a new one (alternator) and keep the old one as a spare.

    Next job refit clutch master and get a flexible hose made up. It will run under the bell housing secured by p clamps to the slave cylinder i will be fitting a banjo fitting to the slave end for easier fitment, Once thats sorted this week . accelerator cable and stop cable then depending on time fitting alternator/ aircon compressor and sourceing dump pipe or whole exhaust system.

    Baz

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Brisbane
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    Any pictures of the progress?
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

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