Thread: 12v glowplugs

I also have 24V glow plugs, but haven't wired them up, so can't help.

urmmmm.. Ive never used the glow plugs in the intended way on a suzi..... if the battery wont crank it over enough to get it to start the odds are its not going to have the guts to work the glowplugs enough to get them heated up and then crank the engine over enough to start.


They do make for an excellent load test against the batteries tho.

to give you an idea of just how important they are in the grand scheme of getting your rover to start we look after about 50 landrovers with suzi engines we hold 1 glow plug.

the cost of getting you glow plugs up will get you a second battery, a set of jumper cables and a primative regulator to charge it.

Glow plugs?

I don't believe I even bothered to hook them up!

Even in minus temps the ole girl'l fire up just fine and dandy!(Now approaching 500,000km)


Love these direct injection engines!

JC

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

urmmmm.. Ive never used the glow plugs in the intended way on a suzi..... if the battery wont crank it over enough to get it to start the odds are its not going to have the guts to work the glowplugs enough to get them heated up and then crank the engine over enough to start.


They do make for an excellent load test against the batteries tho.

to give you an idea of just how important they are in the grand scheme of getting your rover to start we look after about 50 landrovers with suzi engines we hold 1 glow plug.

the cost of getting you glow plugs up will get you a second battery, a set of jumper cables and a primative regulator to charge it.

One of my main reasons is reducing smoke at startup. I run the excess fuel as light as I can, but it still blows a decent puff of black straight into my garage.

I'm running a direct drive starter for chassis clearance and 2 NS70 batteries (24v starting). They crank fine normally, but in situations where it's been sitting and something has been sucking on the battery it gets slow enough to make me nervous.
I think my battery charger has been acting up lately too. Enough that I almost bought some new batteries.

How many amps do a set of plugs suck?

Originally Posted by Dougal

One of my main reasons is reducing smoke at startup. I run the excess fuel as light as I can, but it still blows a decent puff of black straight into my garage.

I'm running a direct drive starter for chassis clearance and 2 NS70 batteries (24v starting). They crank fine normally, but in situations where it's been sitting and something has been sucking on the battery it gets slow enough to make me nervous.
I think my battery charger has been acting up lately too. Enough that I almost bought some new batteries.

How many amps do a set of plugs suck?

Hi Dougal,
I would also suspect the starter and decent earths, as the speed of cranking can have an effect on the amount of smoke at startup. These have a habit apparently of going through solenoid contacts and brushes if the earths are not up to scratch, even more so with a direct drive starter. The glow circuit should draw around 60 to 70 amps.


JC

Originally Posted by Dougal

So who with a 4BD1 has the glowplugs working?

My engine is 24v and to solve the headache of hooking them up, they've never been hooked up. But I think for those times when the batteries are down it'd be worthwhile.
Will 12v on 24v glowplugs do anything useful or do I need to find some 12v ones?

While I have 24v starting, wiring up the series/parrallel switch to the glowplugs would be a nightmare.

Wouldn;ts you just take the 24V supply from the starter motor and put in a solenoid with a 12V coil? not much of a headache for a bloke with CAD drawings of his Rangie

Oh, my glow plugs don't work either -temps it starts with a rough idle with a little to much cranking, but a little idel up on the peddle for a sec clears that straight up

Originally Posted by justinc

Hi Dougal,
I would also suspect the starter and decent earths, as the speed of cranking can have an effect on the amount of smoke at startup. These have a habit apparently of going through solenoid contacts and brushes if the earths are not up to scratch, even more so with a direct drive starter. The glow circuit should draw around 60 to 70 amps.


JC

I know my starter connections are good and I last cleaned the starter 5000km ago. I am using a direct drive starter which draws a lot of current. I've measured over 500amps when it was gummed up. Around 300amps when it's clean.

Basically if the batteries are topped up (just off the trickle charger) then it starts second cylinder from dead cold.
If it's sat for a week or two then it's "whir, whir, whir, romm". The longer time to crank results in more fuel and more smoke.
That's one of the situations where if I had glow plugs I'd use them.

Originally Posted by rovercare

Wouldn;ts you just take the 24V supply from the starter motor and put in a solenoid with a 12V coil? not much of a headache for a bloke with CAD drawings of his Rangie

Oh, my glow plugs don't work either -temps it starts with a rough idle with a little to much cranking, but a little idel up on the peddle for a sec clears that straight up

The current setup has 12v to the starter live wire until the key is turned.
The key triggers the solenoids in the 12/24v switch which switches both batteries from parrallel to series. Giving the starter 24v and tripping the starter solenoid.

So to get 24v to just the plugs would mean putting in a switch to isolate the starter solenoid and switch the plugs on. Prob another switch so the plugs don't run every time the starter goes.
A three position switch, plugs off, plugs with starter, plugs on without starter.

So yeah I guess it's acheivable, but 12v plugs would be soo much easier.