Phoenix
The information I received from J.J. Smith Radiators in Sydney is that the aluminium radiators are much more efficient than the copper ones, however the aluminium ones will not last as long as the copper ones and no where as long as the brass ones that used to be on the Series 1 vehicles. (Some 1948 ones are still in use.)
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sclarke
$1400.................. extra $600 and you can buy the whole car.....
Hope my countys' worth more than that!!!
Mine definately is!! and if you got one for that price, it'd probably need a new radiator!!.
I had mine done late last year (on the 110 Isuzu County), there were 2 options on cores, a heavy duty one (4 core from memory, but might have been 3) or a lesser spec one which was about $800 from memory. I went for the top spec one and it cost just over $1000 - That price was haggled down from $1200 as well!
When you consider the price of a replacement engine it doesn't pay to scrimp on the cooling system.
Another option is to get a new V8 rad (which seem to be very cheap if you look at UK mags / speak to Britpart, etc) and swap the inlet and outlet connections over. This has been done a few times for the Isuzu installation, but I didn't fancy it myself.
Last edited by D3Jon; 16th April 2008 at 11:20 AM. Reason: Added "110 Isuzu County" to avoid D3 confusion!
I need a new radiator goddamnit, still recovering from the prices! $1400 for complete unit, $700-$1000 for a re-core. Apparently the zu uses the "military" radiator which is different to the "normal" V8 version. The V8 one has a elbow at the top outlet and straight at the bottom, the zu is the reverse.
Does anyone know if its OK to convert the V8 rad (only $500, that's more like it)by simply welding on different outlet pipes?(D3Jon has heard of it being done) Has it got the same cooling capacity?
What have others done...surely no one should pay this much for a radiator???!!!
Or am I out of touch with the prices of rads these days.
Five or six years ago a mate had his Isuzu County re-cored (was told one of the last original ones left) for $600; new complete was $1200. Rijidij (who went from V8 to 4BD1T - see his conversion thread) used his modified V8 rad. I believe he has had some minor issues (including leaking from the re-located pipe which has been fixed).
When I did my conversion I had the V8 radiator outlets swapped around to suit the Isuzu. This only cost $45. After 250000 kms in front of the V8 it was still in excellent condition......I presume it has something to do with the V8 being an alloy block. It has always been as clean as a whistle, never needing any maintainence in the 14 years I've had it.
The bottom outlet did develope a slight crack, but I believe this was caused by the hose I had being too stiff and not the quality of the soldering job done in the conversion of the outlets. I had a metal elbow combined with straight sections of rubber hose. I had the crack repaired and changed to silicone hose and have had no sign of problems since, including a 8000 km outback trip.Rijidij (who went from V8 to 4BD1T - see his conversion thread) used his modified V8 rad. I believe he has had some minor issues (including leaking from the re-located pipe which has been fixed).
I would not hesitate to use a V8 radiator again. Changing the outlets is really no big deal for a good radiator repairer. Soldering and repairing is a common part of their trade. It's no different to getting a custom radiator made for a hotrod, only this conversion is probably easier and cheaper because they use the existing outlet pipes and simply swap them from top to bottom and solder them back in the appropriate position.
'88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
'85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
'56 SI Ute Cab
I agree with Rijidij, I wouldn't even bother changing the pipes, just make it work with hoses. The Isuzu never gets hot anyway! All of ours seem to always run below thermostat temperature. I can't see what the difference is other than the pipes.
I paid $800 a couple of years ago to recore a Stage one with the "Proper" core.
Red Rocket.
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