4BD1 LR 120 Turbo?

Mine is post turbo, much to JC's disgust:angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/01/696.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...008/11/163.jpg

quick OT question Matt - do the bits of stainless tube have a bead rolled into them to help hold the hoses on? or are they just straight? if straight, any problems with hose movements?
Cheers,

Thanks for pics Matt.:) Sorry JC.... I'm doing the same:angel:

Tried the 33s off my old Rangie on... The engine pipe is not in a good place on these. No chance of 8" -25 rims:( let alone 35s.:mad:
Would be good if one set of tyres and rims fit all my Rovers so interchange as I replace them. I was keen to get them all up to 35s. Now looks like 33s is it for this one without changing the exhast layout:mad:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1219541771

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1219542195

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EchiDna

quick OT question Matt - do the bits of stainless tube have a bead rolled into them to help hold the hoses on? or are they just straight? if straight, any problems with hose movements?
Cheers,

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Straight, those silicon hoses are great:)

if its an after market job I bet that you have 2 issues...

1. wrong torque plate in the pump and
2. not fueled up enough....

that bolt that houses the lift pump strainers is easy to get to, lay on your back under the vehciel and slide your arm up around the front propshaft to get the ring end on of a shaved down ring oe spanner undo it a turn or so then get out lay across the passangers side guard and the engine then reach down over the motor to get it out that last bit.... since your there you should now sit down on the passangers side guard and remove the rocker cover and adjust your valves. (having realised from the manual that if you're changing or cleaning that particular filter that your also up for a valve check and adjust you would have put the required tools on the drivers side wing and the radiator.)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if its an after market job I bet that you have 2 issues...

1. wrong torque plate in the pump and
2. not fueled up enough....

that bolt that houses the lift pump strainers is easy to get to, lay on your back under the vehciel and slide your arm up around the front propshaft to get the ring end on of a shaved down ring oe spanner undo it a turn or so then get out lay across the passangers side guard and the engine then reach down over the motor to get it out that last bit.... since your there you should now sit down on the passangers side guard and remove the rocker cover and adjust your valves. (having realised from the manual that if you're changing or cleaning that particular filter that your also up for a valve check and adjust you would have put the required tools on the drivers side wing and the radiator.)

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Thanks Dave.. . I got the banjo out ok but had no screen. I spoke to the Diesel specialist I use here and had same concerns as you do.:)
So I fit boost and phyro. Get it close and then put it on his dyno and go from there. He also mentioned the pump has very fine tolerances. They are aparently prone to the symtoms I am having. Fuel rack,Govenor.etc. I just hope it hasn't had bad fuel in it at some stage. Tony

depends on whose standard of "fine" you apply....

your only going to get problems with that pump if salty fuel or if its been left sitting with water in it...

keep your engine filter at 30 micron or below and your laughing.

I've fitted the phyro post turbo as I don't have the time to do a pre turbo set up and time has gone by:(.
All my tractors and trucks here run post turbo anyway. They say there is around 200 deg drop in temperature when on full song.

I will fit a digital phyro pre turbo later on to compare it so will be interesting as there are many variables.


Some pics....Don't be to hard on my rough work:p

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1238675965

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1238677654

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1238677733

I also changed the thermostat as was running around 32 deg:o

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1238678141

This is great for checking cooling systems etc

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1238678218

Tony

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

I've fitted the phyro post turbo as I don't have the time to do a pre turbo set up and time has gone by:(.
All my tractors and trucks here run post turbo anyway. They say there is around 200 deg drop in temperature when on full song.

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The difference depends on your EGT's upstream, the pressure drop across your turbine and the boost you're running.
300C shouldn't be a problem.

It had to happen and I have expected worse with a Santana Box and 10 spline front end.
The bolts have just sheered off on the RHS sals drive flange:mad: It's now 11pm and I need this thing tomorrow:(

Pics will tell the story as you will notice two may have sheered before tonight:(
I was on a light cruise with no load and then had no drive... I thought no worries lock the center diff.... We had drive..... I then unlocked the center diff and no drive..... I applied the hand brake and had friction to the front:eek: The sals cant fail was the first thought....


I did tow a 20 ton truck some time ago and have been dragging this 4 ton feed wagon as a grouper wile sowing our crops here :angel:

It Just amazes me how they fail under light load at times:(

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1246975820

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1246974552

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1246975071

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...1&d=1246976535



Tony