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just as a noteOriginally Posted by Dougal
The problem is the engine has no load, it idles at altitude in sub-zero (usually around 0 to -10C) conditions which are such that it never reaches warm. It then gets driven down a long hill (like 10km long, 1000m-1400m vertical) using engine braking. Again no engine load to warm it up.
1 won't work as higher revs mean the engine just pulls through more sub-zero air. I need load to warm up the engine and the exhaust brake will be used to provide it. Isuzu use an exhaust warm up flap in their JDM Mu's.
2 won't help because the thermostat stays closed and the radiator does next to nothing.
3 I have electric fans.
4 It's not that cold and there is nowhere to plug an electric one in up a skifield.
The exhaust brake is planned to increase engine load at idle and on the way down the hill.
The other option is an intake flap to restrict airflow, which increases EGT's and warms the engine up. My nissan diesel work car uses this method.
Yes, that's the plan.
in Russia and china, a lot of the turbo Chinese trucks had an elaborate heat shield over there turbo. air was plumbed from this shield to the inlet.
the inlet had a flapper valve so that it was an option to draw air from around the turbo. they also had exhaust brakes.
the manual had 3 options. flick over the air intake for long descents, this was very restrictive and worked also an brake. exhaust brake with fule and an exhaust brake with out fule, you can imagion when and where these options were used.
it was also recommended to switch over the air intake if idling in below -15 deg.
the exhaust pipes were also routed to pass in frount and below the radiators. when the radiators were coverd in winter, the cover would also cover the exhaust pipe. hot air rises.
Master
I have one it sounds cool.
Mine is wired to a button on the floor just forward of where my left foot rests when it is off the clutch.
I am thinking of hooking up a vacuum control to the shut off leaver, that way I can shut the fuel off when the exhaust brake comes on.
Master
I love the things....when I finally get my hands on a diesel Landie it's top of my list!
I reckon a foot button near the clutch is the go, wired to both exhaust brake and stop solenoid.
Similar to Mercedes 1418.
Many times I got out of the old 1418 to drive home in my car, and at the first roundabout went for the exhaust brake thr wasn't there....
Then they sold my lovely bus and gave me a piece of crap with an Allison auto fitted with a transmission retarder....it's too aggressive and overheats the transmission if you use it more than a few seconds at a time....wish I still had the old beast!
Wizard
Stop solenoid would not be a good option I'd suggest easiest way would be a switch in conjunction with the accelerator....try a driving under full load with brake onI done it as a test to see what egts I could get...
YarnMaster
I somehow don't think wiring it to the stop lever would be much advantage.
In an engine braking situation, when you lift your right foot off the accelerator you are telling the governor to lower the engine speed to idle.
In response the governor cuts the fuel, and from what I can tell (I stand to be corrected) it will cut the fuel to zero, or at least very close to zero, but certainly less than idle rate, if the engine speed is greater than idle speed.
Looking at scangauge output on a Landcruiser common rail diesel, the fuel rate falls to zero during engine braking and jumps when you push the clutch in and the engine idles at no load.
Master
Most electronic injection systems of any fuel will cut off on overrun...
No real benefit or downside to hooking the exhaust brake to the stopper I suppose...
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