Thread: Budget 4BD1 turbo install

The only problem is that for some strange reason, the genuine turbo/manifold has a T3 flange. My turbo has a T2 flange.

Thanks to Dougal and Agrojnr, (and LOTS of drilling and tapping by yours truly), a solution was found...

Part 1 of the adaptor:


Part 2 of the adaptor:


The copper stuff is VHT high temp copper gasket cement. An excellent product which I used instead of gaskets in most cases.

And - manifold fitted - note the brass plug. I drilled and tapped manifold to 1/4" BSPT so I could fit an EGT probe.

and before you say it, YES, I know my engine is FILTHY!

I was trying to keep the factory AC initially, and I came within 10 mm or so of being able to do it... Unfortunately in the end it wasn't possible. So I will be building a better system. There isn't much space in there...


The next step was to tap in an oil drain for the turbo. This needs to be able to flow quite a bit of oil. I chose to use the cover over the top of the oil pump drive, which just conveniently happens to be directly below the turbo oil drain. However the breather connection is (inconveniently) in the way...



If you look closely, you can see that a line through the bolt centres of the cover do not pass through the middle. Remember that...

First I ground away some material, and drilled and tapped to 1/4" BSPT.


Then I brazed in a barb fitting.


Then I did some creative modification , because I hadn't noticed the point above... However, I think this way is actually better - the drain would have fouled the breather the other way.

It was necessary to rotate the housings, which meant that it was also necessary to modify the wastegate actuator bracket:


However I later needed to rotate the compressor housing further to clear the bonnet...

More pics etc. to follow soon.

Excellent work, I'm happy to see that adapter works too.

That breather plate could just unbolt and move to the front camshaft inspection hole if you needed it to. Your oil pump drive cover is also very different to my 4BD1T, mine is simply a steel plate, not the deep casting that yours is.

Good to see some pics

Originally Posted by Dougal

Excellent work, I'm happy to see that adapter works too.

That breather plate could just unbolt and move to the front camshaft inspection hole if you needed it to...

Thanks Dougal. I did think about moving it, but that may make access even more difficult...

I only got it back from the exhaust shop yesterday - took them 1.5 weeks!!! but it is a very nicely made 3" mandrel bent exhaust, and squeezing one in in a 110 isn't easy...

Only problem is, the +ve cable to the starter shorted on the exhaust on the way to work this morning...


Hard to see, but the cable is horizontal, just above the chassis rail, and the exhaust is at about a 50deg angle.

I didn't even notice it was close to it, would have moved/secured it when I did all the other hoses/cables.

Needed to cut and shut the breather. I will leave a more detailed description of this in the Provent fitting thread I started.



And to T-in the 8 mm rocker cover breather:

The rest was just plumbing, and welding pipe to flanges... Didn't take many pics...

Rijidij posted how to mod the air cleaner, I did the same, only I brazed a plate on instead of riveting.

Turbo compressor inlet:


The crossover pipe is the only major PITA. There is about 1.5" of clearance between the tappet cover and the bonnet ribs. I didn't want to mod the bonnet, so it took a while to get the crossover pipe done. (I also tried to buy one, but none of the wreckers in Perth had a 4BD1T. The turbo outlet is 2" and the 4BD1 air inlet is 2.5".

The crossover pipe is only temporary. I will be making a new/improved version when I fit a wta intercooler (coming soon).


The original breaather connection to the inlet makes a handy place to attach the pressure line to the wastegate actuator:


There is isn't much space under there...


Not a lot of room up here either...

The breather lines are only temporary, I think I will be moving them down lower, further away from the exhaust. I will probably fabricate a neater actuator bracket as well. That was a rush job fabbed up in-situ, when I realised I needed to rotate the compressor housing more (I originally planned to have it pointing close to vertical, as I had an alloy 90 deg. outlet. Bonnet clearance wouldn't allow it though.

Apart from the exhaust, the only other expensive bit was the braided hose and T fittings, to connect the turbo oil feed to the oil feed for the vacuum pump. This was about $120 from Pirtek. Edit, and no that isn't an oil leak, I had disconnected and reattached the oil feed just before the pic was taken. Apart from that, just hoses, hose clamps, etc...

I still need to fit the boost and EGT guages (when they arrive). Then I can turn up the fuelling

However, I had tweaked the fuelling slightly before (when it was NA). It already seems to have a fair bit more go.

As mentioned, I will also be building an intercooler. Watch this space...