Thread: Another 120 project begins

I'll have a really good look at it when I get home, but not really.

I could find some part numbers / codes stamped on the gearbox housing (possibly motor housing as well) but most tags are hardly readable. I think I saw 8000 (lb) stamped in somewhere, but the model number was not visible from memory (some of it is still covered by caked on mud, so there's hope yet).

Forgot to say, it's likely to be from the early / mid 80s. Looking at the motor side of the drum and motor housing, there doesn't seem to be a mechanism / grooves for coupling the drum to the drum casing (i.e. to brake it) - see below



The motor shaft is tiny, so I'm sure it would not be breaked (broke? - Ron, advance appologies ) through the shaft.

and the motor housing / attachment



Cheers

"braked"

This any help??? Looks like a different model, but shows roughly what it should look like.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php't=69459

Originally Posted by Shonky

"braked"

Ah... but of course,

Originally Posted by isuzurover

This any help??? Looks like a different model, but shows roughly what it should look like.

Warn winch brake repair - Great Lakes 4x4

might be... the key points may be in the following posts:

__________________________________________________ _____


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeeperz Creeperz View Post
It probably doesn't have a load-holding brake....

how does it hold then?

- - -

Quote:
Originally Posted by clarkstoncracker View Post
how does it hold then?

It doesn't, which is the problem you're having....

"Automatic Direct Drive Cone" does not mean "Automatic Load Holding Brake".
__________________________________________________ _____

After a long break, the winch is finally back together.

Originally Posted by Psimpson7

Do you have any idea what model number the winch is?

I recently found out it's a Warn M8000, - I found a bunch of pics of one pulled apart here, which is identical to mine.

Oh, by the way, it does have a brake within the drum, it's just recessed a lot deeper than I expected. I'd say its only about 6-10cm wide.

Now the M8000 is complete, I can focus on getting the 120 on the road and fitting a turbo. This is what I have so far:



My first question is (plenty of others to follow, but I thought I'd start here and take it one at a time) , where can I mount an EGT probe pre-turbo?

Rijidij suggested drilling and tapping the manifold where the two branches meet (see here. This would be simplest easiest and best location, but would there be any problems in drilling and tapping a cast iron manifold?

Alternatively, an adaptor could be made to fit the probe between the exhaust manifold and turbine mount, looking something like this:



But this would be more work, so I'm wandering if it's necessary?

Cheers

Bojan

Mate well done with your winch thats an excellent job.

Now I wish I put more time into doing mine

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...h-rebuild.html

Sorry cant offer any advice on the EGT sensor

Originally Posted by Offender90

My first question is (plenty of others to follow, but I thought I'd start here and take it one at a time) , where can I mount an EGT probe pre-turbo?

but would there be any problems in drilling and tapping a cast iron manifold?

But this would be more work, so I'm wandering if it's necessary?

Cheers

Bojan

See my post in the EGT thread >>>>>>>> http://www.aulro.com/afvb/isuzu-land...tml#post906171

Cheers, Murray

It's been slow but steady. I've been attacking it from several fronts, but it can be frustrating to see little progress after seemingly so much effort.

After some deliberation I ended up making a spacer for the EGT probe. I've got to thank Adam (agrojnr) for the lasercutting work. Just brilliant mate, the fit is perfect for the turbo...

Spacer with EGT probe fitted


Perfect fit all the way around...


...which is more than I can say for the factory exhaust manifold! There is a massive lip in the cast on the LH side, and a smaller one on the top...



Thankfully, its nothing that a good ol' dremel can't fix!

I now have to get some longer bolts and additional T3 gasket (or some VHT high temp copper gasket cement) and bolt it al together on the 4BD1.

Does anyone here know the size of the bolt for the T3 "point-up type" isuzu manifold (same as isuzurovers' one shown here)?. The local Coventry Industrial don't have the right size, and getting to a Coventry Fastenders outlet during business hours is a nightmare for me. *** Update*** They're M10 x 1.5!!!

After that, the fun of fitting and plumbing the intercooler starts - I've got a 550x230x65 front mount air to air intercooler in the garage & need to get an AC county front panel to be able to fit it in. Thought I had one but found out it's been butchered to fit a non AC ARB bar onto an AC county!

I other works, the county radiator is buggered, so its time for a replacement. Original staggered core has seen better days:



My options are:

a.) a new aftermarket (V8) radiator, or
b.) a rodded original (V8) radiator (cooling fins in good condition)

I've got one of each sitting in the garage (one for the V8 90 and one for the 4BD1T). I'm thinking of getting the original V8 one cleaned (rodded) and outlets swapped for the 4BD1 and using the aftermarket on the 90. The original has staggered cores (same as the original isuzu radiator as far as I can tell). Isuzu staggered core pic below.



Thoughts - brand new in-line core radiator or original "staggered core" in good nick?

While I've got the radiator out, I'll replace the 3 bolt steering box which has serious leakage.



I've got a spare 3 bolt sitting in the garage, but I've heard the 4 bolt boxes are stronger. I can get a S/H 4 bolt for ~$250. Given that the front end of the county will (eventually) be very heavy (4BD1 + PTO + Heavy duty winch bar) & I'll be running 33s, is it worth upgrading to a 4 bolt?

I say eventiually because I've yet to fit the Thomas PTO winch that I recently come into possession of. I've also got to swap the sump over to a wingless one to leave enough room for both the PTO shaft and a 3 inch exhaust between the chassis rails.

The only thing I'm missing for the PTO is the drive sprocket (I'm told the part number for it is FTC73). Does anyone know if the drive sprocket is fitted to all military (LT95a) boxes, or only the winch equipped ones?

Given that I'll have decent access to the engine and gearbox in the process of the work above, should I be thinking about any other maintenance work (i.e. replacing seals etc)?

Cheers

Bojan