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The donor one should be a external reg type, the original one internal regulator. I would be getting hold of a replacement internal reg type 120A alt to suit a 4BD1. I got one after having no end of trouble with the original 40A one not charging enough etc to run driving lamps and fridge etc. If you need the part number, I'll dig it out again?Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutt
JC
Thanks JC
I already have the part number for the alternator from the forum, at the moment we are trying to get the vehicle back on the road ready for Christmas, we are setting up dual alternators each charging it's own battery,the original RR alternator/battery combination shall be for fridge, etc, in the New Year we will look into upgrading the Isuzu alternator to a more respectable level as well as the front brake calipers, rear storage draws, re-do the roof lining, etc .......... I think the to do list is getting longer, then there is the list for our MacGregor 26X sailboat, we still have to re-wire the trailer, change the tow coupling, get a weight bridge reading, blue-slip and register the trailer, clean-up the mess inside left by Australian Customs, etc.
Christmas is getting very close.
Glenn
I hope this works, here is a short vid showing how easily the 4BD1-T starts
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...08/12/1344.jpg
And a couple of shots of the air suspension up
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...08/12/1345.jpg
and down
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...08/12/1346.jpg
Glenn
I've been waiting a good while to put air suspension in my rangie - hope to have all of the parts together in the new year.
Do you have a engine driven compressor?
I want to mount a york compressor on my 4BD1-T, but have much more to do before I can get around to it.
In those pics, your exhaust seems to hanging lower than I would like - I don't know if it just the angle we are looking at it.
The exhaust has been tacked together from what we had lying around so I can drive 3 to 3.5 hours home and get our exhaust guy to fit it a lot higher than we can, I want to tuck it as high as it can go.
At this time all I have fitted is the 12v Firestone compressor that came as part of the spring kit, I have a York at home all I have to do is work out where to put it, there are already two alternators and an air conditioner compressor fitted, all mounted one on top of the other, clearing the chassis at the lowest point with enough clearence for the bonnet to close at the highest point, the Shock tower forward of the spring mount isn't helping, maybe replacing the belt tensioner under the motor, it would be protected by a rock guard and getting air from the Doyalson air cleaner, it would be forward of the axle about level in height with the sump! Can the York be used mounted 90 degree rotation?
Our biggest problem at the moment is getting either of the alternators to output charging voltages, the sensor line to the dash light works, any ideas?
We want to get on the road again for Christmas/New Year.
Glenn
Yorks have oil in their crankcase and have plugs on both sides for checking the oil level.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutt
According to their installation instructions, they can be mounted at any angle from horizontal left to horizontal right, but not below horizontal. When mounted horizontal, the suction port should be to the top.
There is an oiling modification to york compressors if used for onboard air. There is a passage from the inlet port that drains oil back to the crank case via the front main bearing.
Remove the clutch (jacking bolt is 5/8" unc), woodruff key and crankshaft seal.
Stuff rag around the bearing and put something in the oil port so swarf is excluded, tap the oil drain port and plug with a grub screw. I can't remember what size I used - either M5 or M6.
Edit: sorry, I can't help much on electrical matters.
Thanks John
After we get back on the road and iron the bugs out of the system I will be having a closer look at fitting the York, I am also looking at adding an old air compressor tank to the space where the "Load Leveller" came from, there is already an air tank under the Driver's side and I have a stainless 45 - 50 litre water tank to install under the Passenger's side, I'm looking at adding a pressurized water system by somehow getting a lower pressure air line to the tank, I have yet to look into that side of things.
If the old compressor tank is too big I might make a stainless tank to fit the spot for more water.
While I think of it:
On our 4BD1 there is a large hole on the side of the engine which is part of an inspection plate located under the turbo, where does that go to?
Also the breather on the right side of the rocker cover, where does it go to?
Neither of us can remember what either of these holes connected to, we pulled the motor out last year.
Glenn
That cover plate is over the oil pump drive gear where it meets the camshaft.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutt
The breather on factory 4BD1T's went to an air/oil seperator, this has a small drain line back to the sump and a large vent line which points at your driveway.
I've changed the air/oil seperator to one of my own design and routed the vent back to the intake before the turbo.
On non turbo truck engines (4BC2 etc) that line goes straight to the intake piping.
Not sure where the landrover ones went, but I'd assume vented to atmosphere.
What does it look like, if you don't mind I might duplicate your air/oil seperator?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
At the moment it is venting to the atmosphere and dropping oil directly onto the concrete.
Does the breather on the right side of the rocker cover connect to the same seperator?
Glenn
PM me your email. I can send you a self-opening 3D model that you can spin around and measure.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mutt