Clutch replacement

**JDNSW** · 29th April 2009, 08:26 PM

Going into town today I encountered signs of a slipping clutch. Probably not surprising, it has done over 300,000km, and I have been thinking lately that the clutch pedal is a bit light (compressing the springs gets easier as the plate gets thinner).

Now I have never had to do a clutch on this vehicle (last replacement was when the gearbox had some repairs, and I got that done in town). Thinking about it today, it seems to me that it may be easier to do by removing the engien than the gearbox, particularly seeing I have a hoist but not a frame to support the box, plus I would have to remove the aux. fuel tank to get the gearbox out. Also, the front crankshaft seal needs replacing, and this would be a lot easier with the engine out. So I am looking for comments on this procedure and any suggestions.

Not sure just when I will be doing it, probably need to do it within the next couple of months though.

John

**Blknight.aus** · 29th April 2009, 08:47 PM

yep suzi in/out takes less than a day with little more than a basic tool kit and an engine crane.

**JDNSW** · 30th April 2009, 05:45 AM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

yep suzi in/out takes less than a day with little more than a basic tool kit and an engine crane.

Thanks Dave.

Don't have an engine crane, although I could hire or possibly borrow one, but I do have a two ton travelling hoist.

Would I have to remove the radiator (and condenser)? Problem here is whether I have to degas the aircon, which would have to be done in town.

John

**Dougal** · 30th April 2009, 06:53 AM

Don't know about your county, but my rangerover needs the rad removed but the AC condensor can stay.

It is much easier to pull the engine than the gearbox.

**Bearman** · 2nd May 2009, 06:04 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Thanks Dave.

Don't have an engine crane, although I could hire or possibly borrow one, but I do have a two ton travelling hoist.

Would I have to remove the radiator (and condenser)? Problem here is whether I have to degas the aircon, which would have to be done in town.

John

John,
You will have to remove the radiator but not the a/c condensor. Also remove the a/c compressor from the engine and tie it back out of the way,you wont need to bleed the gas this way.....Brian

**JDNSW** · 2nd May 2009, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by Bearman

John,
You will have to remove the radiator but not the a/c condensor. Also remove the a/c compressor from the engine and tie it back out of the way,you wont need to bleed the gas this way.....Brian

Thanks, this is what I am hoping. Similar information when I was talking to Fred Smith when I ordered the parts yesterday.

John

**rocket scientist** · 2nd May 2009, 07:07 PM

cleaned down and equipment prepared I have had the engine out in under 2 hours. it's the only way to go!
Make a tripod from solid pipe and use a chain block if you don't have an engine lifter. good luck.

**isuzurover** · 2nd May 2009, 11:53 PM

JD - may as well put a turbo-spec pressure plate in - if only to make sure you don't ever have to do it again!

**rar110** · 3rd May 2009, 08:07 AM

Originally Posted by isuzurover

JD - may as well put a turbo-spec pressure plate in - if only to make sure you don't ever have to do it again!

Ben,

Do you know the part number?

**p38arover** · 3rd May 2009, 08:18 AM

I just had a look at my copy of the Perentie parts catalogue and only one clutch is listed. If there is another for the 4BD1-T, I'd expect two listed.

Pressure Plate: 8970317592 (sounds Isuzu)
Disc: AYG3616 (sounds LR)

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