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Thread: Vacuum to mechanical diff lock conversion

  1. #11
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    Damned if I can find it now but recently (like in the last few weeks) I was looking at a web page in which the guy had replaced the vacuum pipes on his LT95 actuator with a lever that went up through side of the gearbox tunnel. Had photos and everything.

    All he did was dismantle the actuator, keeping the central rod which he and changed so that a lever pushed/pulled it to engage/disengage the CDL. The lever arrangement required some welding for bracketry that then bolted onto the side of the gearbox. Backwards (towards the seat box) was engaged and forwards (towards the firewall) was disengaged, IIRC.

    Was all pretty clean and tidy really and not too difficult.

    Of course, now I want it I can't find it

    Anyone else finding Google getting worse for finding useful stuff?
    Alan
    2005 Disco 2 HSE
    1983 Series III Stage 1 V8

  2. #12
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    Cut the vacuum chamber open to reveal the bolt and undo it,aswell as the 2 mounting bolts and take it to the workbench.Now hack off what is left of the vacuum chamber to leave you with a diamond plate with 3 holes,get some 25 x 3 mm flatbar and bend it into a U shape.Drill a hole in each flat section,1 for mounting and the others for a pin/bolt to go through(make 2 of these the same).Refit the diamond plate and 1 clevis(U shaped thing you made before) bolts onto the selector shaft,the 2nd clevis bolts to the upper or lower mounting hole depending on which way you want the lever to work.Get a lever of some description and drill 2 holes in it and fit it to the clevis's and you're done.Sorry I can't help with pics at the moment,it would be a lot easier to explain.

    Eric

  3. #13
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    Thanks guys!

    But are you saying that THE ONLY WAY to go is to use a mechanical lever arrangement?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Thanks guys!

    But are you saying that THE ONLY WAY to go is to use a mechanical lever arrangement?
    Goodness me no. I was just responding to the OPs request for info. I was investigating options because my vacuum switch wore out and getting a new one was next to impossible second hand and at a reasonable price. A new one is just a stupid price

    FRC5656-DIFF-LOCK-CONTROL-VALVE-SWITCH

    Instead I replaced the vacuum switch with this (and put it on the proper side of the gearbox tunnel). 1/10 the price.

    Alan
    2005 Disco 2 HSE
    1983 Series III Stage 1 V8

  5. #15
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    O.K. It's all my fault!

    Instead of asking the question by starting a new thread, I picked up an old one (September 2009) in the same vein and added on.

    Very robust switch you have used! Much better than the OEM Lucas/Land Rover type.

    Is it only the Perenties that have a rotary switch on the dash for the CDL or do all the later 110 and Countys have the rotary switch?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post


    O.K. It's all my fault!

    Instead of asking the question by starting a new thread, I picked up an old one (September 2009) in the same vein and added on.

    Very robust switch you have used! Much better than the OEM Lucas/Land Rover type.

    Is it only the Perenties that have a rotary switch on the dash for the CDL or do all the later 110 and Countys have the rotary switch?
    My '85 120" had the pull-out switch on the left hand side of the bulkhead under the driver's seat - between left leg and hand brake.

  7. #17
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    I guess my next Q should actually be.

    Do all the Perenties have the rotary switch or is it just the Perentie prototypes?

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  8. #18
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    My County has been altered by a previous owner too, the switch for the centre difflock is the one under the green maxi drive indicator. It's rather convenient in this position.

    The other pic shows the under bonnet arrangement.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #19
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    Hasn't anyone actually replaced the diaphragm in the actuator?? i think it cost me 5 bucks for a diaphragm about about an hours work, you can pry the press fitting off around the vacuum pod undo the bolt replace diaphragm goop it up with gasket maker around the press fitting and crimp it back down with pliers.

    for the switch i cleaned it out with degreaser, wd40 and lightly blew compressed air through it, it had alot of oil and crud in it.

    After all this it worked perfectly till i pulled the lt95 out.

  10. #20
    Join Date
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    BTW the counties i have seen with lt230's used mechanical linkages.

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