ok i have not really been following this thread much.
has anyone got a drawing of the adapter and drive that works. should not be to hard to knock some up. is working out what you need that takes the time and risk etc
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ok i have not really been following this thread much.
has anyone got a drawing of the adapter and drive that works. should not be to hard to knock some up. is working out what you need that takes the time and risk etc
85, see previous entries in this thread for link to my build. I elected to buy a kit.
My photos will no doubt give competent machinists some idea of machining required. If that's you then knock one up and I'm sure others will be knocking on your door...but I suspect you may have to make it real cheap cost wise, but with high quality :)
Anyone had any thoughts on how to keep water out of the gearbox? In particular to the clutch fork boot.
Lack of drain. Filling up whilst doing river crossings. Wear and tear from water ingress. Thats it
The bellhousing isn't anywhere near water-tight, so it self-drains of water and oil quite well. The only place water can get into the gearbox itself is the poppet breather on the top cover. I replaced mine with a barb fitting to breather tube.
This of course leaves the clutch plate/diaphragm and throw-out bearing susceptible to water. I suspect you'd have to get them wet often to cause a problem. The clutch plate/diaphragm will throw water out just with engine rpm.
Sorry re read my post, meant the clutch area not the gearbox
Vern Water in the bell housing wont be a problem The only time it may be is if you do a deep water crossing then not use it for a couple of days.Organic clutch plates tend to grow onto the flywheel:(Forky stick to hold clutch down overnight does the trick
Noel
More thinking of thrust race bearing and spigot. I'm sure bugger all will get in, was just curious
Yet to tackle this issue.
Likely to be a problem if your bell housing gets filled with muddy water (ie a stall in a bog hole) and no action taken to flush.