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yes, you would have machined it prepared it on a lathe, then welded it with a flame torch that had a funnel on it that you filled with a powder. it sprayed on. then you normalised it quenched tempered etc, maybe a bit more machining for balance and cosmetics, or if the break was on a spline re weld that. spent hours re welding cluster shafts for Austin 1800s and bloody cams for Tasman and Kimberly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
Is that the same sort of kit they used to use for building up worn shafts etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by 85 county
Is it still used nowadays or has it died off in favour of just replacing worn/broken parts?
Steve
We used to metal spray Toyota front axles where the inner oil seal wore a grove allowing oil into the CV, never had one break.
Also the same for the steering box sector shafts bottom seal area, out of about 50 sector shafts repaired this way we had one failure due to abuse, all sector shafts were then replaced with new parts.
Shafts were machined down with a slight taper on each end, the middle section had a shallow thread machined in and then metal sprayed then machined to finish size.
Many different grades of powder were available.
Mocky.
well it has died off, like a lot of old skills. i mean just look at this thread. the cost of a factory CNC auto feed product is minuscule compared to a hand machined one of.Quote:
Originally Posted by steveG
yes it was cheaper. i have not seen it done for years. i did build up some cable blocks for a brick factory a couple of years back. the maintenance manager had a fit for wasting time and money bla bla. blocs lasted on average 6 months. the pair i built up and faced are still there after 2 years.
and like a lot of things the knowledge is lossed. well just look at the rubbish on this thread. people arguing over crap really. to me these adaptor threads look like the 1/2 blind leading the 1/2 blind in a dark room.
i posed way back, nothing wrong with the adaptor shafts look at alinement's. so only now weeks latter are people looking at aliment. but apparently that's to hard to do. if the mag block will not sit on the flange. put a hunk of plate on it with a couple of vice grips. DUHH. NB torquing yp the flange. the bar needs to be out the other side. so that the bar and the handle of the tourge wrench are coming together, no apart because as you know that will not work DUHH.
i have told a couple of people ver pm or phone how to build an adaptor shaft for about 300 - 400 bucks. its so frig gen simple. am i going to post it here, like hell and have every back yard garage 1/2 wannabe engineer who all have a mate of a mate who said this or that claim to know more than me so in short, Nope.
85 county.
Mine is an Outcast unit and they have no known problems for other units they have produced - I was just trying to provide some info for those who have Sheldon boxes or for other interested people, I didn't feel like I had to go to the nth degree for a small amount of information.
Just for clarification the picture was about undoing the nut - so the bar was in the correct position.
You're always welcome to contribute what you know as I like to learn.
How's it going Mocky?
You didn't tell me about your metal spraying skills when we were on the phone. Good to know if I need some advice. And good to know Vern got home with your help. Cheers.
Dean, i can't look at alignment as mine is still all in the car, BUT when i start dismantling it i will and i'll post results.
Mine should sost about $300 to build i guess😊
Spoke to sheldon, nice fellow
Did he have any ideas about strengthening the shaft?
Nah, he was surprised it had snapped, said the company that was doing the shafts may have made some out of a different material, he wasn't to sure. Had flogged the crap out of his and no dramas.
so we are sort of back to deflection and alignment.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vern
when you are ready to rock, we can do a step by step alignment. LOL cam on the phone even