Thread: Isuzu MSA Gearbox to LT230

Sorry Sheldon. I need it for a spare. The one I have has lost a synchro.
Have you seen this one? ISUZU ELF N SERIES 4.3 4HF1 MSA-5R AND PTO MANUAL GEARBOX #7108 | eBay

Keith

Hi Sheldon, what are the benifits of the new shifter over the old one? (this is me starting to wish I haddnt got rid of my old lt85..)

So, Sheldon, what is the shortest setup you could make using an LT230, and isuzu box?

Originally Posted by 123rover50

Sorry Sheldon. I need it for a spare. The one I have has lost a synchro.
Have you seen this one? ISUZU ELF N SERIES 4.3 4HF1 MSA-5R AND PTO MANUAL GEARBOX #7108 | eBay

Keith

Thanks Keith, seems we are drying up the supply of MSA's in south east qld.....

Originally Posted by flagg

Hi Sheldon, what are the benifits of the new shifter over the old one? (this is me starting to wish I haddnt got rid of my old lt85..)

1. Simplicity

2. Reduced part count (if all goes well will need maybe 4 or 5 custom machined parts - if all goes well that is.....)

3. Lower profile top section

4. Neat appearance


I wouldn't be to concerned about the LT85, I am sure there are plenty of dead ones around. As long as they haven't all been melted down for scrap....

Originally Posted by isuzurover

So, Sheldon, what is the shortest setup you could make using an LT230, and isuzu box?

a) The short answer:

~490mm

b) With a bit more info;

The LT85/Current MSA setup is 650mm.

So a reduction of ~160mm

c) Even more info;

I have thought about doing this so as to push the engine back for;

1. Better weight distribution
2. Easier access to power steering box
3. More room up front for intercoolers etc.

It appears quite possible with the truck style oil filter(s) (the landrover up mounted one would be a close call) and with a slight 'tickle' on the corner of the passenger foot well with the low mounted truck direct drive starter motor. The original aircleaner would need to be relocated of course. My thought was to the roof.... Exhuast would need to be modified and I doubt a N/A manifold would fit (good excuse to upgrade to a turbo?)

d) You bring up a cross road I have been thinking about....

The original design was to keep everything stock location for simplicity. The install is as simple as a standard gearbox removal and refit. All good and well. But now I have 3 steel housings left (which if those who have contacted me follow through with it are all claimed for), but I have some options with pro's/con's for each of the following;

i) Continue to make the steel fabricated housings (Con: time consuming)

ii) Get the housings cast (Con: I would need a committment from enough people to make this worthwhile as I need to order quite a few (ie. probably enough for the next 10 years.... Pro: With enough commitment would lead to a price reduction) to make the mould and castings cost effective)

iii) Use a MXA-6R as 'Cheif' has if the nose of the LT230 doesn't interfere with the main gearbox case (Con: but I am pretty sure it will interefere, the boxes cost a bit more than an MSA and they may be in harder supply to fit up to a 4BD1)

iv) Make 'IsuzuRover' ~490mm shortened versions (Pro: Should make the adaptors cheaper (although that doesn't factor in the 'tickling' of the foot well and relocation of aircleaner, exhaust.... Pro: Will make the new LT85 type shifter much easier to design, which may complement the price of the whole set up. Con: The fitment now is no longer a standard remove/refit of gearbox, with the need to push the engine back Pro: Better handling due to weight distribution. Less weight over the front axle to bend it and easier access to power steering box.)

v) I have a MSA with splitter on the back = 10 speed (I know Rijidiji has one of these laying around too). It is slightly over length to keep things standard length, but it may be possible to slice the back end off to keep things standard lenght. Until I take a closer look, ie. dissmantle the box (it is still in the truck) I won't know whether this is possible or not (Pro's: 10 speed (from driving the truck and looking at rev's, I am guessing the splitter is around 0.75-0.8:1, main gears feel to be similar to a 5G/5P), Pro: If what I am hopeing can be done can be, then it should be a relatively easy conversion with things in stock location. Con: Boxes with splitters may be a little harder to come by.)

vi) Use splitter box with transfer case pushed back about 90mm (Pro: 10 gears, Con: Hi/lo/Diff lock lever becomes trickier to design, prop shafts need modifying)

vii) Just do all the options above to keep everyone happy. (Pro's: Everyone is happy. Con: It will take considerable time to get all those options feasible)

viii) I just sell the last 3 housings, and go on another 'walk-about' around Australia


How do we put a vote thingy up on a thread?

My thoughts as an end user are that I plan to keep my vehicle for ever, so in that regard the 3 most important things are;

1. Reliability
2. Sourcing of parts/maintenance
3. Handling (gear spread, shift quality, weight distribution)

And the least important things are:

1. Initial cost considering it's pay back over 20 years service (within reason of course)
2. Install time (if it only needs doing once for the next 20 years, then I am happy to spend xxx number of hours now installing it - within reason of course)

With that in mind and having driven mine with a MSA-5G for long awhile now, I a more than happy with it. I don't think you need any more than 5 gears (if you lack usable torque at any speed - fit a turbo, if you still lack torque - fit an intercooler, up your fueling etc, if you still lack torque fit a 6BD1), the spread between 1st and 5th is more important. Given the relative ease in which it can be done, I beleive the only worthwhile improvement to my setup is to push the engine back for the improved weight distribution, so my choice if I had to go with one option would be option iv) the shortened 'Isuzurover' version.

Being potential end users, it would be appreciated to hear your views so I direct my time and energy to what would be the most popular set up to get it rolling....

How do we set up a vote on a thread? A vote, with a comment as to why you would choose an option if you please

Oh, and the Disco/Rangie version doesn't have room to push the engine back (the plan is eventaully to have a replacment top cover for it too - but that's a whole lot of hard work yet....). So if you vote, please indicate whether for Disco/Rangie or Defender/110.

Thanks

My 2c.

For the 110 (tourer), I would like to use as many off the shelf parts as possible, and as close to OEM as possible. Long term, when the LT85 gets tired (which unexpectedly hasn't happened yet), I would like to fit a truck engine, truck box (preferably 6 speed but 5 would be OK), one of your adaptors, and shift kit. Moving the engine back would improve handling, but things are OK as-is and the front axle is more than strong enough now.

The reason I asked about the short(est possible) setup, was that I think I can fit a 4BD1(T) in the IIA and keep the original grille/bonnet setup.

I suspect most would want a bolt-in, minimal mod setup. However there is probably also a (small) market for the short setup - for series conversions, FC101 conversions, and those who want better weight distribution.

Originally Posted by the_grubb

a)
How do we set up a vote on a thread? A vote, with a comment as to why you would choose an option if you please

I don't think you can add a poll to an existing thread ???? but it would be good if you could, can someone confirm.

Murray