the time has come, i can dodge it no longer

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28th October 2009, 07:02 PM
rovercare

Quote:

Originally Posted by incisor

in BOR's hands drop it off tuesday, pick up friday i hope :P

they have a donor and will be swapping the bits as needed i would imagine...

i dont have the time to do it myself, not to mention the patience :P

The God of the bestest DIY rover site:)

And your not DIYing:p
28th October 2009, 10:11 PM
flagg

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bush65

This post is the 1st I have seen suggesting r380's are as strong as an LT95. IMHO they are not.

I have seen posts from Dave Ashcroft comparing the R380 strength to an LT85, but never to an LT95.

The following quote is from Ashcroft's web page for LT85

yes my bad, that should read *lt85*.. :angel:
29th October 2009, 05:39 AM
Dougal

All roads seem to be leading back to Isuzu as the best 5 speed box.
29th October 2009, 09:06 AM
incisor

Quote:

Originally Posted by rovercare

And your not DIYing:p

yeah i know....... :(
29th October 2009, 09:07 AM
incisor

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougal

All roads seem to be leading back to Isuzu as the best 5 speed box.

no argument out of me ;)
29th October 2009, 01:34 PM
isuzurover

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougal

All roads seem to be leading back to Isuzu as the best 5 speed box.

I don't think anyone ever questioned that. The R380 is a bit easier to fit though. That said, I will be likely be going isuzu if/when my LT85 wears out.
29th October 2009, 02:03 PM
Dougal

Quote:

Originally Posted by incisor

no argument out of me ;)

Someone needs to sort out a gear linkage.
Everything else is easy.
29th October 2009, 02:56 PM
Bush65

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougal

Someone needs to sort out a gear linkage.
Everything else is easy.

With my current rangie project I will change the Corolla cable shifter to use 2 short rods instead of cables - I was not totally happy with the tight bend in the cables and don't want to get longer cables made up because I want a tidier engine bay without the cables.

It looks easy enough to do using the Corolla shifter. Is should be simple enough to make from scratch, but I already have the Corolla gear shift.

When the gear shift lever is moved in the left-right direction, a horizontal finger rotates a bell crank that will operate (via connecting rod/link) the top lever on the Isuzu box in the forward-rearward direction. I need to modify the bell crank because of the change from cable to rod (to correct height difference and direction of operation).

When the gear shift lever is moved in the forward-rearward direction, a vertical finger will operate (via connecting rod/link) the side lever on the Isuzu box in the rearward-forward direction. I need to modify the lever on the side of the Isuzu gearbox because of the change from cable to rod (to correct direction of operation).
29th October 2009, 03:35 PM
Dougal

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bush65

With my current rangie project I will change the Corolla cable shifter to use 2 short rods instead of cables - I was not totally happy with the tight bend in the cables and don't want to get longer cables made up because I want a tidier engine bay without the cables.

It looks easy enough to do using the Corolla shifter. Is should be simple enough to make from scratch, but I already have the Corolla gear shift.

When the gear shift lever is moved in the left-right direction, a horizontal finger rotates a bell crank that will operate (via connecting rod/link) the top lever on the Isuzu box in the forward-rearward direction. I need to modify the bell crank because of the change from cable to rod (to correct height difference and direction of operation).

When the gear shift lever is moved in the forward-rearward direction, a vertical finger will operate (via connecting rod/link) the side lever on the Isuzu box in the rearward-forward direction. I need to modify the lever on the side of the Isuzu gearbox because of the change from cable to rod (to correct direction of operation).

That's what I'd like to do. But I think I'm screwed for room.
How much space do you have between the top of the gearbox casting and the underside of the firewall and heater?
I have about 5-10mm. The top of the box has been shaved (neutral switch removed) to get it in.

I have no body lift and can't lower the engine for more clearance due to the front axle. I don't want to lose any more front suspension compression.
I plan to swap to a later model body, hopefully the later style transmission tunnel will give me more room there. I've been hunting for a donor for some time and haven't yet found the right one.
Looking for a 92-94 with intact air suspension, tidy interior (not brown) and tidy panels.
They're hard to find.

*edit*
Are you using the long stick position (same as LT95) or the short stick position like the later classics?
I'm currently long stick, but will go short stick when I find the new body.
*/edit*
29th October 2009, 07:06 PM
Bush65

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dougal

...
How much space do you have between the top of the gearbox casting and the underside of the firewall and heater?
I have about 5-10mm. The top of the box has been shaved (neutral switch removed) to get it in.

...
Are you using the long stick position (same as LT95) or the short stick position like the later classics?
...

I have little clearance above the lever on top of the gearbox.

The gear shift lever will be close to the short stick position.

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