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Thread: 4BD1T Intercoolers

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrew e View Post
    you guys think too much. Twist the wires together and stick them between the silicon pipe and the flange. Push them through a bit, so they are in the air flow, and tighten the hose clamp back up. No probe needed. The air steam is the hottest bit (the outer metal pipe is heated by the airflow) so the thermocouple wires will give you this reading. Some thermo fans use a similar technique in the radiator hoses with their switching.

    This is not meant to be scientific, and your engine wont detonate if its wrong (unlike a egt).

    Andy
    that's all I've ever done too. Well, actually use an exposed joint TC, but they are just the wires twisted and soldered together, and I've repaired them (soldered) and ended up with teh same readings as before too.

    Works fine.

    And adding length to the probe is fine too, only induces a small error, well within anything we are worried about.

    In industry we increase probe lengths all the time, usually just using 2 core 0.5mm cable and half the time not even shielded and I've never noticed any problems and using either butt connectors or BP connectors.

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    In industry we increase probe lengths all the time, usually just using 2 core 0.5mm cable and half the time not even shielded and I've never noticed any problems and using either butt connectors or BP connectors.
    The hotter the joints are the bigger the error. The automation company I used to work for had issues with thermocouple joints when trying to read a specific hot-spot (about 200C) which was in a hot area.
    Basically trying to pick when a tip was hot enough to work and that was influenced greatly by all the nearby joints, to the point where it was tellng you the tips were hot enough to work and they weren't.

    In the end they twisted and crimped the joints. That made them stable enough that a heat-gun on the cable joint wasn't influencing the temperature reading enough to worry about.

    *edit*
    Oh they were using "compensating cable" on those thermocouples too. Using copper wire will always give you another cold junction.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Air/water aren't more efficient than air/air, with both you're still relying on a front mounted radiator to shed the heat. But they are certainly more compact.
    I think that merc intercooler will work surprisingly well. How many kw was the merc it's off?
    E280 CDi 3ltr 140kw 440 mn . I may try it and see what happens.
    :Strange Rovers Down Under 4BD1T 120" 110 /3 Rangies:/ 3 series 1's/ 2 series 2's/2 series 3 88's/2
    series 3 109's and a heap of rice burners

  4. #44
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    Off topic

    Quote Originally Posted by big guy View Post
    Not all intercoolers are the same even if they are same size or even bigger.
    Its the way they are internally and the way they flow.

    I just put in a new intercooler in my Disco from TRS and its same size as original but better quality and flow etc internally.
    Made big difference. Mu mate did similar on his Audi S3 and wow. Quality intercoolers are definately worth the money.
    I would do some research and not just get the cheapest.
    I still have the old one from my Disco, you can have that if you like but i can not guarantee it will do the job.

    As said in other posts, I am not fan of Isuzu but its worth doing right because I do know that when they go well they are unstoppable.
    So good luck with research. Maybe call some diesel injection guys or some Isuzu truck places, they may have exactly what you want.
    You always keep reminding us of this. Thats fine ,but shouldn't you be hanging out with the TDI boys.


    Justin

  5. #45
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    IC

    Below is our set up. 400 x400 x 75. From memory it was to suit a Honda of some type. This was chosen purely on size as its the only space we have. AC and a high mount winch take up the front.
    Does it help!!!! I would have to say by the way it acts as a heat sink when static testing it, that on the road at speed the air pushing through it must take something with it.


    Thats a TD5 turbo with a custom adapter to an Isuzu manifold. This was all done relating to cost. (new turbo $580) a few years ago. No flash calculations were done, we just winged it and it goes very well.

    Justin

  6. #46
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    dranged would you happen to have a thread about you turboing the isuzu?or any details/photos/part numbers of your setup reason why is because i am going to do the same thing (Td5 turbo)
    so did the Td5 turbo mate straight to the 4bd1T turbo exhaust manifold (is it called a T3 flange?)?

  7. #47
    clean32 is offline AULRO Holiday Reward Points Winner!
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRanged View Post
    Below is our set up. 400 x400 x 75. From memory it was to suit a Honda of some type. This was chosen purely on size as its the only space we have. AC and a high mount winch take up the front.
    Does it help!!!! I would have to say by the way it acts as a heat sink when static testing it, that on the road at speed the air pushing through it must take something with it.


    Thats a TD5 turbo with a custom adapter to an Isuzu manifold. This was all done relating to cost. (new turbo $580) a few years ago. No flash calculations were done, we just winged it and it goes very well.

    Justin
    winging it is good, i notice some LPG there, more winging it to come?

  8. #48
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    Turbo

    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    dranged would you happen to have a thread about you turboing the isuzu?or any details/photos/part numbers of your setup reason why is because i am going to do the same thing (Td5 turbo)
    so did the Td5 turbo mate straight to the 4bd1T turbo exhaust manifold (is it called a T3 flange?)?
    "Thats a TD5 turbo with a custom adapter to an Isuzu manifold."

    You just need to read my original post a bit better

    No, no threads on the engine.

    Justin

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