4BD1's do wear out.......![]()
Just a few questions about rebuilding a 4BD1T from a truck,
The crankshaft is supposed to be nitrided from what I've read,can these be reground if need be?
If so do they need to be re-heat treated?
What's the easiest way to get the old liners out?
Will a cam regrind/repair last as long as a new cam?
I'm sure there'll be more Q's to come.
Cheers Eric
4BD1's do wear out.......![]()
Yes the crankshaft in the 4BD1T is nitrided - this produces a very hard case and also increases the fatigue strength.
Isuzu say it cant be reground. I can't see why it couldn't be re-heat treated after grinding, but there is a possibility that it could distort during heat treatment (nitriding isn't as prone to this as most other heat treatment processes, because temps are lower, and although reasonably dimensionally stable they can grow a little).
To remove and fit the liners you will need a puller - see pics
Edit: pic from here - and I couldn't find any larger pics![]()
My crank has done three rebuilds and hasn't needed to be ground yet. I would avoid it if possible. They are extremely hard and would take extreme punishment before showing any wear.
Cam wear will show up externally as your tappet adjusters moving a lot. IIRC they use roller followers so the lobes only wear if the rollers crap out. It happened once to the 4BC2 truck we have but it was a very cheap fix ($130 to get the cam built up and reground).
Thanks for the replies guys,
The followers in this engine aren't roller ones,can anyone confirm if the factory turbo engines should have roller followers?
Just got back from the engine machine shop that I normally use,he said the cam and followers are shot.
The crank measured up OK but has light scoring from lack of oil changes,he will find out if they can just be linished so standard bearings can still be used.
A word of warning,never ever buy an engine that has been owned by a scrap metal guy.Total lack of maintenance and bodgy repairs give you the s....
Eric
Hey Eric
We used a similar puller as Bush65's to remove the liners when we did the rebuild, also used a similar method to refit (a mate of our's has all the gear for rebuilding isuzu's), our crank didn't need any work aswell...
Good luck with the build.
P.s we still have to find out about those alternators......
TIM.
Dads-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...-progress.html
Mine-
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-ri...-progress.html
Mums- stock 92 200tdi d1.
Tim,
In the AEA catalogue it lists 2 different alternators for the diesel 60 series,both are 80amp units and have the 105mm inside leg measurement so should both fit.
They are as follows:
Part # ALT0510
12V 80 AMP Internally regulated
180mm centre to centre
Weight 10kg
Suit the following:
1984-90 HJ60,HJ61 and HJ75 (2H and 2H-T)
1980-84 HJ47 (2H)
Part # ALT2830-80
12V 80 AMP Externally regulated
174mm centre to centre
Weight 8kg
Suit the following:
1972-88 Delta,Rocky (2.7Ltr DL)
1979-83 Nissan 720 ute (2.2Ltr SD22)
1981-90 HJ45,HJ75 (4.0Ltr H)
The truck engines use a 80mm mount where as the landy uses a 105mm mount.
Hope that helps.
Cheers Eric
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