110 Axle Upgrade, or is it?

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Originally Posted by Didge

Christ, I got lost in all that!
I'm with Jakeslouw on this one - $10-$14k and you're set :)Help please
what does the sals diff look like, does it have a flat horizontal bottom edge to it? And how do you shave one, and what part do you shave? Also what is this R&P you're talking about?
cheers Gerald
I'd love to see photos of all this work

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Hey Gerald, yes heck these guys can go on hey? ;)

Salisbury diff is a Dana 60 made under license in the UK after WWII. Big round pumpkin housing, so the guys "shave" it by grinding off as much material as possible to get center clearance.

R&P is Ring and Pinion gear set, the two bits that define and set your diff ratio.

As for disks versus drums on the Mog Portals: the Mog drum brakes are able to stop up to 17 tons. (The SADF Buffel was a V-hull, mine-proof, armoured personnel carrier bin body mounted on a Mog rolling chassis. I drove in those enough times in my life to tell you they stop pretty well).
With a decent brake booster and master cylinder, I wouldn't have any worries with them stopping a little old Land Rover.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Didge

Christ, I got lost in all that!
I'm with Jakeslouw on this one - $10-$14k and you're set :)Help please
what does the sals diff look like, does it have a flat horizontal bottom edge to it? And how do you shave one, and what part do you shave? Also what is this R&P you're talking about?
cheers Gerald
I'd love to see photos of all this work

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Hey Gerald, yes heck these guys can go on hey? ;)

Salisbury diff is a Dana 60 made under license in the UK after WWII. Big round pumpkin housing, so the guys "shave" it by grinding off as much material as possible to get center clearance.

R&P is Ring and Pinion gear set, the two bits that define and set your diff ratio.

As for disks versus drums on the Mog Portals: the Mog drum brakes are able to stop up to 17 tons. (The SADF Buffel was a V-hull, mine-proof, armoured personnel carrier bin body mounted on a Mog rolling chassis. I drove in those enough times in my life to tell you they stop pretty well).
With a decent brake booster and master cylinder, I wouldn't have any worries with them stopping a little old Land Rover.

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Originally Posted by mac1308

Hi All,
We are running Ashcroft 4.1's and CV's, HiTuff axles on a D1 with 35"Simex, no breakages since swapping to Ashcroft CV's. Running Ascroft CV's and HiTuff axles on a 130 and a 90 V8 with no probems (all get a
hard time).
Mac1308

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are these the latest/strongest Ashcroft R+P?

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

You would be crazy to get rid of the sals if you are running 35's. Sure, the toyota guys manage to run up to 37's, however generally on lighter vehicles and they do break things occasionally.

Shaved sals in the rear with Dana 60 4.1 R&P and locker/axles of your choice (D60 lockers and gears are very cheap ex-us and fit into a sals).

Ashcroft's new superduper ring and pinion in the front (4.1) and locker/axles of your choice.

Most people will break CVs in the front if running 35s and locked - so will need to upgrade to ashcroft cvs. You must only be driving mud if you aren't breaking rover cvs on 35s?

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This is the setup that I run on my Defender,except I run the Ashcroft reverse cut 4.12 ring an pinion in the front with a McNamara locker with chrome moly axles and CV's from Keith at Rovertracks.And I run 35" Treps.About as strong as I can make it with the rover setup I guess.

And I run the rear Salisbury with Dana 60 gearset and custom pinion flange,again all supplied from Keith.Rear locker and Hi Tough axles and flanges.
And all for a lot less money than other people have been talking.

Wayne

I thnk I need a sacrificial defender, a heap of time off work or to do a mechanics course :( I'll pick it up (learn), but only when things go wrong (and I have to fix them) which luckily they haven't (in great amounts anyway) but it's all interesting isn't it :)

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Originally Posted by uninformed

are these the latest/strongest Ashcroft R+P?

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No, the older type they offer (the others had not come out yet), can only imagine how hard it would be to brake the new type.(They look great)
Mac1308
Ps A mate has a very heavy 130 with Maxidrive's + crawler gears and 35's he has been running ashcroft 4.1's, rover front Sals rear (old type) for 18 months loves the gearing (he's no speed demond but takes it everywhere).

Hi All
I am trying to do the opposite in that I have a 2004 130 CC running 33's with a P38 rear diff.I am try to setup for touring with camper to remote locations, with the occasional fun day. Is it worth/strong to install an ARB locker into the P38 or is it smarter to bite the bullet and install a sals with an ARB locker. Any advice would be great.

Richard

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Originally Posted by rstach

... is it smarter to bite the bullet and install a sals with an ARB locker.

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That option.

The problem with the P38s is not so much the centre as the ring and pinion. The sals crownwheel is almost 2" larger in diameter, and hypoid, which further increases strength. It is probably twice as strong. People in the US run them with 40" diameter wheels.

how much for a Sals, disc to disc?

then how much for new axles and flanges?

how much to upgrade the p38 to an arb or ashcroft with new ring gear and shafts/flanges???

price it out

I have not found A HD R&P in 3.54 for the P38. I will start the search for a Sals.