That snorkel looks awesome!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nat p
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That snorkel looks awesome!!Quote:
Originally Posted by nat p
I've seen a 308 in a Range Rover but it had cast manifolds - perhaps you could use a set of 'block huggers' but I wouldn't expect any noticeable power gains - just look a bit nicer. Custom headers would cost a lump. Castle Auto Electrics (CAE) and darrendifillipo.com.au have a good range of DIY header kits....?Quote:
Originally Posted by nat p
Good luck, it looks fun!
Matt.
Hi Nat,Quote:
Originally Posted by nat p
Can take some pics of mine (PM me an email address) and you can post them up. Someone will know what brand they are. I have NFI.
The only mod appears to be a slight kink at the end on the driver side to clear the stock crossmember. They would clear a tube crossmember with no mods.
EL thermos on a stock 3.5 RRC radiator works fine for my POS. Never gets over half on the gauge.
cheers, DL
What is the chev engine?
I've heard of the old overfinch conversions and they use a Chevy lump but can't seem to find ay info on which engine it actually is! Did holden use the same motor at any time being part of GMC?
Its a 350 chev, 1986 crate eco engine. i ran darren difillipo they dont have an off the shelf version, so they do a DIY kit for $440. not bad, BUT I thought they would be cheaper. I will try to find an off the shelf veraion first before I spend ALOT of time making my own.
The Carb 670 CFM Truck holley has arrived!!!!! pretty keen to put it on, I reckon in 2 weeks it will be moving!!
Cheers nat
More pics and pieces, This time its the cooling system.
As ya can see form the below,
We have installed the radiator. We have used a 4 core Disco 1 rad. The reason: it came with the engine AND we only had a 3 core rangie version.
We have used a EL 6/V8 ( they are the same fans) These a great fans, I have them on my 4.6 and not even a hint of getting hot. They are very very easy to fit. Theres about 10-15 minutes on triming ( this includes double checking and rechecking after each cut). and BAM perfect. You can fit them a couple of different ways. They will fit a range rover rad well as well.
I used pop rivets cos it was easy/fast and final. The only fixed from the top. The bottom uses a standard lip which we simply trimmed the fan shroud til it fitted.
HOSES: The top hose VX buick V6 holden trimmed 4cm off the end and we used a swivel thermostat housing to make easy for ourselves (and it was cheap). The bottom hose came with the engine. The chev outlet and rad outlet are different. You can get them not sure where.
We will be using a Davies Craig thermo switch to turn the fans on. I will wire it up so there is a switch inside which as 3 settings, OFF, ON and thermo controlled ON.
I cant stress how well these fans fit.
Next is the fuel.
Cheers NAT
Ok,
We have now finished off the fuel system, The carb which came with the engine was Ok, but leaking fuel (only needed a kit through it) and after a look around we chose brand new 670 Holley truck Avenger (basiclly we got this for a birthday present hence the new carb). This is the perfect carb for this app. They set up for extreme angles. So noe theres a 10mm line all the way through. We were going to run a holley red BUT was told they dont suck very well. Cos our fuel tank draws from the top, maybe later. So we went with the a high flow mech pump. This system will be fine so the current set up.
Next is some heads and exhaust and BANG 300+ HP, but this will do for now. We wanted to set everything up so later therees no need to upgrade the fuel system.
We chose a clear 10mm fuel filter (sory cant remeber code) for easy of service and we placed it there so when we change it its easy to do so without spilling fuel over the engine.
After ringing around we went with the 10mm fuel line. We didnt want to run lean, especially with the changes planned for later.
NEXT IS ELECTRICAL:
Next is wiring up starter motor AND then mounting and wiring up the Coil. This "should" be easy, cos we are going to use the standard starter wiring (except we have replaced the batt cable with a bigger higher amp version). I have already wired up the starter and things did work, I think the starter motor is buggered cos I tried to jump start it and nothing.
AND the coil, we are going to use the standard wiring. I've just to to make sure that this will work.
And its also time to put earths everywhere. I have a great method to make you own. I will take pics for this one.
Cheers NAT
Oh I forgot, for the heater hoses, we used Torana LJ. theses are great, they have a roght angle on one side and then they are 2 foot long, so perfect for this app.
Ok gang, the next thing to do is earths!
Yep very boring but we all know how bad these things are so maybe i went a little overkill but I reckon it's just right.
We made custom earth leads for the engine out of 10mm black battery cable. The best way (I've found) to to fill them 3/4 full of solder wire, and then simply dunk the cable in, you can tell its a solid connection by the way it holds in there.
The way I've found to work best is to our the end in a vice grip, facing up on the stove with the end in the flame, then drop solder wire into the pot until 3/4 full and then dunk the cable into the pot and pull the vice grip out of the flame, hold the cable at the same time so it holds in place. Some solder will spill out so best to rest the lot over something you can get rid of. The solder does simply wipe off. I used a baking tray. And then washed it!
Once cooled down we covered the ends with shrink wrap for a pro finish.
I do recommend trimming the insulation and test fit over and over until the desired length is obtained. I've noticed there's a couple of different lengths so if you cut a little bit too much insulation, no big deal. Just cover it with heat shrink. By the 3rd go you Sus it out how long you need to trim.
You could use an oxy torch or something with a bit of heat, I found the stove handy cos it kept both hands free.
So as ya can see there's an earth from the left head to the chassis and then another to the body,
There's another on starter motor side which is attached to the engine mount bolt to the body.
The standard battery to body to chassis will replaced shorty. There's nothing wrong with this set up. It's just old and I've got more cable and ends.
Check out pics .