I have seen both spacers for the balljoint and spacers for the A arm chassis links, balljoint spacer maybe the better option.
I was looking at my A arm the other day, because I have a +2 lift, soon to be replaced with +3 flexy coils retained top and bottom with long travel Fox 2.0 remote shocks. Due to the lift, the arm has moved down, leaving the ball joints movement restricted. My plan is to make a spacer, 40-50mm thick to sit between the diff and the ball joint to raise it back up to a normalish angle. I'm guessing this will allow more down travel before binding. Keen to hear thoughts on this.
mick.
I have seen both spacers for the balljoint and spacers for the A arm chassis links, balljoint spacer maybe the better option.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Why don't you use a high angle ball joint instead?
Due to the loss of movement already taken up by the downward travel from the lift. I have already machined a bit of metal from the rear of the ball joint mount to give it a few more degrees before the A arm contacts it. I'm just curious to hear thoughts on the spacer idea to raise the A arm back up to a standardish pre lift angle.
mick.
Pretty sure there are a couple of OS fab joints that make a bracket that goes on the rear of the arms in place of the original that places the ball joint holder further back.
This would help stop ball joint binding AND maintain a better diff pinion angle with the rear propshaft.
Maybe do a search on Pirate 4x4.
DL
The problem with rotating the top of the diff rearwards is that it puts pressure on the diff spring seats. The way around that of course is to cut and relocate the spring seats further forward. Not really keen on cutting things off.
mick.
Have thougt about doing this but upon taking to a repected 4x4 and rockcrawler susp fabricator it was suggested that its alot of work or time fabbing stuff for not that much if any gain in actual offroad ability. If i was going to go to those legnths in getting the rear end working better offroad...id go long arm kit to replace the trailing arms...as was suggested.
Good rear flex is great but it aint nessesarily gona get you any further up any given difficuilt track...and more so if you havnt paid much attention to getting your front end more balanced with the rear...no easy feat compared to the rear.
My 2c
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2010 D130 - Powered by BMW M57N & ZF8HP70X 8speed auto
You can get rose joint replacements I think that would be the cheapest fastest and best option
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