What’s wrong with a rear sals and Ashcroft front, you will have to drive pretty hard to break them and no custom stuff.
We've had a few series land rovers and couple range rover's in the family over years I have decided that I'd like another RRC in my life. The problem is that I am not to keen on RR V8 and a few of other features of these old beasts. So this has got me thinking about what I would like to do get the RRC I'd like. The first thing would be a better V8 engine, LS in my case - cheap light powerful and reliable. Ideally that would be mated to a 6L80e auto (4L80e the backup) using the LT230 with an Ashcroft ATB centre. Now this then leave the problem of he rest of the driveline which clearly isn't go to hold up to extra grunt. Excepted wisdom seems to be that the best front is a Patrol GQ/GU (H233) with the 80 series rear diff competing the picture. I'd add a ARB locker to the rear at least and maybe I some upgraded axles. I know there are other options like grafting in a Ford 9" or Nissan H260 centre with custom axles, these might work fine but I'd like to be able fit standard parts if needed. At first I was thinking about fitting the new diffs to the RRC chassis but then I though it would be easier to just use original chassis that the diff come from. So rear half of an 80 series grafted to front half of GQ/GU with their respective diffs, LS/6L80e/LT230 all toped off with an RRC body.
I know that I would need engineering for all this, but you are going to need it for the engine aways, so that doesn't worry me so much. what do you think?
Cheers, Jo
What’s wrong with a rear sals and Ashcroft front, you will have to drive pretty hard to break them and no custom stuff.
Thanks Fitzy, nothing wrong with the Ashcroft or sals from what I here. My concern in part would be cost and the other would be the availability of parts. You can get trol and cruiser bits pretty much anywhere, not sure it would be same for the Ashcroft/sals bits. obviously a lot simpler to do as your suggesting!
Cheers, Jo.
Local just dropped a new crate LS & 6 speed (?) into his RRC. Pretty sure still on rover diffs.
'93 D1 V8 auto
'93 D1 200Tdi 2-door, ARB's, MD transfer, sill tanks, winch, 2"lift.......
'95 D1 V8 auto......gone
'86 V8 RRC.....gone
Why waste your time and energy joining chassis when the diffs are almost a straight bolt in?
I have this combo in my bush truck project and the rear diff needs a centre mount welded on. The spring mounts can be changed to rover type like mine or I believe your can use either patrol or cruiser springs that match.
That's it, nice and simple.
Tough axles, tough hubs and strong centres that will handle heaps of power.
Good luck with your project, just don't over complicate it.
Neale
85 Range Rover Ute (Project in pieces)
89 Range Rover Classic (Black Thunder)
93 200tdi Disco,(OGRE)
96 300tdi Disco, DEAD MOTOR
04 Nissan Patrol with ALL the fruit
09 Cub Daintree Kamperoo
12 VE II Commodore Ute DD
Another option with the Salisbury rear is to do a 35 spline conversion. Another aulro member has the list of parts required in a post . You could then put in a Detroit locker and forget the rear. For the front others have already said Ashcroft or Nissan patrol axle with adjusted mounts.
You could try original diffs, toughened axles, good oil and true trac lockers to give strength, and to ensure drive is always split across both axles, so no transient wheel spin to shock load a single axle with torque. In the first instance, leave the original splined hubs in place, as these will be the weakest point, and they are just $20 and five bolts to undo to replace - a cheap "shear pin" if you will. Once you've determined that this simple combo will work, then go for stronger hubs to reduce wear and backlash over time.
I've seen 110's and D2s with True Tracs front and rear, the RRC is the same, so it shouldn't affect your handling.
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