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Thread: Brivis ducted heater issues.

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
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    Tewantin, Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    Thanks Glen rod is rubber mounted and I was careful to keep it isolated from the surrounding metal, should I give the rod a light sand to clean it ?
    So bear in mind I would usually walk into the combustion chamber to do this but the standards are the same, so the principles should be the same.
    The crud is usually “oily” deposits from the combustion process. A light clean with a scotchbrite and metho will take these off, if it’s got a lot of corrosion you may need wet and dry, but you want clean metal.
    Look at the electrical connection from the rod to the wire make sure it’s free from corrosion. For me it was always a lug and a couple of nuts threaded onto the rod.
    Wipe down the insulator as well but if this was the problem it would usually fail prechecks and not light.
    Lastly if the rod or the burner has moved there may not be enough flame on the rod to get a “connection” So check that it’s in the blue / orange part of the flame.

    Cheers Glen

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    St Helena,Melbourne
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    The rod, if we are talking about the same item, isn't in the flame path. The only item that is ,is the igniter element.
    I assume you work with industrial furnaces ?
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by loanrangie View Post
    The rod, if we are talking about the same item, isn't in the flame path. The only item that is ,is the igniter element.
    I assume you work with industrial furnaces ?
    Odd?

    I thought there should be a thermocouple in the flame?

    I've had limited experience with gas, but usually it's a faulty TC or the TC has moved and needs repositioning.

  4. #14
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    Apr 2018
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    There is no thermocouple on that unit
    the pilot will be going onto something metal it will be connected to 1 of the white wires at the bottom .it could be turning it’s self off for over temperature
    l am sure the parts are available you where probably told that by a younger tradesman that’s the common reply when they don’t know how to fix it find a bloke with plenty of experience because most of those parts are generic

  5. #15
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beachy View Post
    There is no thermocouple on that unit
    the pilot will be going onto something metal it will be connected to 1 of the white wires at the bottom .it could be turning it’s self off for over temperature
    l am sure the parts are available you where probably told that by a younger tradesman that’s the common reply when they don’t know how to fix it find a bloke with plenty of experience because most of those parts are generic
    I haven't spoken to anyone yet but the search I did said the major parts like the control valve are obsolete, the only item anywhere near the flame is the igniter element which glows red hot to light the gas but stops when there is no flow.
    Oddly we had it on this morning for a few hours without issue which has me stumped.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Brisbane, Inner East.
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    There is a plethora of information on the internet about that brand of heater. Surely there is something there to guide you.
    URSUSMAJOR

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbjorn View Post
    There is a plethora of information on the internet about that brand of heater. Surely there is something there to guide you.
    Pretty much all advertising or different models and no troubleshooting info for this model.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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