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Thread: Brivis ducted heater issues.

  1. #1
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    MoveLater2 Brivis ducted heater issues.

    Not sure if anyone is familiar with the buffalo gas heaters but we are having issues without our 20+yo HE5 model. Heater will either start and run fine for a few hours or the reset light will flash and it blows cold, i pulled out the burners and checked the jets which are all clear. When first starting the igniter glows to ignite the gas but it seems like the gas isnt being released, but after a few resets it starts and burners light nothing is wrong but then only for 15mins or so. Its an old unit and most parts are obsolete so not worth a service call and would like to try and keep it going at least til late spring while we work out how to pay for a new unit.
    Last edited by V8Ian; 25th August 2019 at 01:50 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
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    Have you checked the thermocouple operation? If this fails or isnít working properly it will cut the gas supply at the gas valve.


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Have you checked the thermocouple operation? If this fails or isnít working properly it will cut the gas supply at the gas valve.
    Hi mate, I can't for the life of me find a thermocouple. It doesn't have a pilot light instead it has an electric element that glows red to ignite the gas and its working fine every time.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah !
    98 TDI AUTO SE DISCO - gone and will be missed.
    2003 Dingo offroad camper trailer
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #4
    Homestar's Avatar
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    Well Iím out of ideas then. 😇


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1976 Series III Tray
    1997 Honda CBR1000F
    2003 L322 - Gone to a new home.

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  5. #5
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    There must be some sort of safety device in there to stop gas flow until required. Usually a bimetallic strip that opens a simple valve to allow gas flow when heated and shut it off when not.
    URSUSMAJOR

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigbjorn View Post
    There must be some sort of safety device in there to stop gas flow until required. Usually a bimetallic strip that opens a simple valve to allow gas flow when heated and shut it off when not.
    I've searched and the only part I can't work out its purpose is the metal rod sitting horizontal with a wire attached, doesn't seem like a suitable place for a thermocouple type device.
    Done lots of googling and can find SFA about these heaters yet they are one of the most popular models.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah !
    98 TDI AUTO SE DISCO - gone and will be missed.
    2003 Dingo offroad camper trailer
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  7. #7
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    Need a better picture of the schematics in the top of your pic.

  8. #8
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    Hopefully this is clear enough.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah !
    98 TDI AUTO SE DISCO - gone and will be missed.
    2003 Dingo offroad camper trailer
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  9. #9
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    The metal rod with one wire attached is called a flame rod and it should be in a ceramic holder keeping it electrically isolated from the frame of the heater..
    When you start the burner the controller will allow a small time for the flame to catch (normally only 30 secs or so)..
    The controller has by now put a DC voltage on the flame rod and is looking for current leakage. The flame is conductive, but the leakage would only be a couple of milli amps, but itís a goldilocks thing, not too small etc
    There is nothing special about the rod and is usually just a nickel carbon steel to be able to handle the heat.
    Almost every problem Iíve had with gas fired burners has been flame rods. They often get covered in crud and loose connection with the wire when it gets hot or the crud ďshortsĒ the flame rod to ground. The other problem Iíve seen is the flame rod has drooped to the edge of the flame, so it started but once everything heats up the flame contracts, the rod is no longer in the flame.
    The usual caveats about voiding your insurance apply.

    Cheers Glen
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dorian View Post
    The metal rod with one wire attached is called a flame rod and it should be in a ceramic holder keeping it electrically isolated from the frame of the heater..
    When you start the burner the controller will allow a small time for the flame to catch (normally only 30 secs or so)..
    The controller has by now put a DC voltage on the flame rod and is looking for current leakage. The flame is conductive, but the leakage would only be a couple of milli amps, but itís a goldilocks thing, not too small etc
    There is nothing special about the rod and is usually just a nickel carbon steel to be able to handle the heat.
    Almost every problem Iíve had with gas fired burners has been flame rods. They often get covered in crud and loose connection with the wire when it gets hot or the crud ďshortsĒ the flame rod to ground. The other problem Iíve seen is the flame rod has drooped to the edge of the flame, so it started but once everything heats up the flame contracts, the rod is no longer in the flame.
    The usual caveats about voiding your insurance apply.

    Cheers Glen
    Thanks Glen rod is rubber mounted and I was careful to keep it isolated from the surrounding metal, should I give the rod a light sand to clean it ?
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah !
    98 TDI AUTO SE DISCO - gone and will be missed.
    2003 Dingo offroad camper trailer
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

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