I think it is easier If I upload it....
This has been done.
Printable View
Hi Folks and thank you very much onesilop for posting up that info.
Next, I am finally working on the full installation instructions for the USI-160 Isolator.
I have been supplying these new isolators to those who were aware of them, for just over 12 months now and while the units main software was developed over a 5 year period, as time permitted, the USI-160 has proven to be bullet-proof as far as use and reliability goes.
A number of units have been used extensively on a couple of vehicle that have done the Cape trip and one was so impressive that the owner of another vehicle with a different brand got me to ship one to Cairns so he could upgrade his set up.
I have only had two replacements and both were assembly faults not software or design caused faults.
The point is that I have had a good education from those using these Isolators and the info gained will be put into the new comprehensive instructions.
Now, I am after any suggestions for what people would like included in the instructions?
Instructions for mounting the switch/led outside of the enclosure or running a secondary switch/led in a stock panel/switch panel of the vehicles.
FWIW mine has been running faultless with mainly one battery except for on two occassions without an issue.
+1 for the ref card as below.
One product change I would like to see is just simply labelling which side is shared which is ignition. That would for starters make life allot easier, as for the manual - this applies to almost anything that I have in the defender - is a quick reference card (like the mediocre one i attached to this thread) would be great. Something small that you can keep in the cubby box so that on the rare occasion when you need the jump or winch mode you have all the info there in front of you.
Tim. Do away with the reference of "ON" / "OFF" or "OPEN" / "CLOSED" for the switch position, and use "SHARE" / "ISOLATE" or similar terminology .... the on/off open/closed reference tells the operator nothing in respect of what the switch is controlling. It is confusing. What's on ? What's off ? What's opened ? What's closed ?
SHARE = When the engine is stopped - Both batteries "share" the auxilliary load/duty down to the cut-off voltage
ISOLATE = When the engine is stopped - Both batteries are "isolated" from each other when the cut-off voltage is reached
Maybe label the switch "I" and "S" ? (LED side & opposite side)
We already know/accept that both batteries are charged when the engine is running and the voltage is above the cut-in voltage
For "JUMP" and "WINCH" mode use the same logic ... "J" and "W"
So maybe the switch could be labelled "I/J" and "S/W" ... I & S in one colour (being the primary functions) and J & W in another colour (as secondary functions). This allows the operator to immediatley see what position the switch should be resting in for the function desired.
here's me with my still uninstalled SC-80 and a giant marine switch that I can find nowhere to put... and you come up with this thing which is just the sort of thing I;ve been looking for all along ! (I think)
Just to keep relevant info in the appropriate place ... to makes searches juicier ;)
In another thread I asked Drivesafe ...
"Using the USI-160 ... is it better to keep the aux & crank battery "shared" ALL the time, or keep the aux' "isolated" normally, only using "shared" mode when actually running accessories.
When it's being used as a daily drive, the D2 isn't running a fridge or any accessories.
The batteries are both Optima's ... D31A + D34"
Tims reply ...
"Unless the is a specific reason, the USI-160 gives the best results when operated like the SC80, in SHARED Mode ( switch set away from the LED )."
Put that in the manual Tim! ;)
Hi Kev, already one jump ahead of you and here is a copy of the alterations.
Recommended operation, unless the is a specific reason, the USI-160 gives the best results when operated in SHARED Mode ( switch set away from the LED ).
If you have a flat cranking battery or you are doing some winching, then you set the switch to the IGNITION Mode ( switch set towards the LED ).
Also, if a flat battery has occurred and you only do a short drive after starting the motor, it is recommended leaving the switch in the IGNITION Mode ( switch set towards the LED ) until you know if the cranking battery has been charged and is holding it’s charge.
This is done to make sure you auxiliary battery has the highest possible charge in it if the cranking battery proves to be faulty and you need to jump start a few times before you are able to replace the cranking battery.
Hi folks and I have just uploaded the latest USI-160 Isolator Installation and Operation instructions.
Warning, it’s a large PDF of 1.2MB.
You can download the file at the link below.
http://www.traxide.com.au/files/USI160_Install.pdf
After having had a SC40 in the fender for a while now, and having a suspicion that I damaged/cooked it (my fault - don't ask!), I got in touch with Tim and got a USI-160 off him. It is always nice to drive out there anyway and talk to him - he is a very knowledgeable person when it comes to electrics and just a general good bloke too..... (he's repairing my SC40 if it's not beyond repair)
Installed the unit yesterday (USI-160) and following the ample and simple instructions it was easy...... Everything works as it should and I'm more confident of a cold beer now on my next trip away! :cool:
Thanks Tim - you're a legend mate (I'll be back later for more cable and connectors as discussed)
I did have trouble understanding which way the switch should go, but after reading the previous posts it is now clear.