Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits

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Originally Posted by JBM770

Would this upgrade by worthwhile for a Disco II?

I just got some cheap foggies to put on it.

Also how can I get the switch on the dash to work, what goes behind the button?

James

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Definately worthwhile, if you have the factory D2 button it will not work as it is originally used to 'trigger' the output to the factory foglamps through the BCM. The switch is not a push on push off kind.

There are plenty of good quality switches on the market.

JC

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Originally Posted by slug_burner

Mostly because HID bulbs cannot be used legally in cars that did not come fitted with them unless you perform some mods to your car to make it ADR compliant.

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I didn't realise we were discussing legal options as spot lights and most home done vehicle accessories/modifications cannot :no2: be done legally:rulez: either:wacko:

Furthermore been following a similar discussion on another forum and they are suggesting that the new ADR's frown heavily on any modification that increases the luminious output of your lights so was wondering has anyone actually been booked for headlights being to bright or for using spotlights on road??

In regards to the disco factory switch, I used to mod the D1 switches by cutting the back surround off (where the factory plug would normally go) and hard wire a short loom and plug to it. Then run this to a a/m or made up harness for the fog/driving lights. But that was a push on/push off switch. If someone can draw up how the switching on a D2 fog switch is (or I could go test mine) I'm sure we could make it still work.

After all, I've just about worked out using the stereo controls on the steering wheel to act as a hard wired winch in/out switch.

Achtung all Puma owners. If you have fitted the Traxide kit, I assume you gained access to mount relays and plugs/sockets by removing the upper and lower fan shrouds?

I'm in the process of fitting one to my 2011 Defender and any tips would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Igloo2

"I started out with nothing and still have most of it left"

This is what I did:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/90-110-130...it-2007-a.html

You will need to remove the headlight surrounds to get to the light plugs and probably also the front grille to get the wiring over to the passenger side light if you install the relays where I did.

Hi All, have just installed upgrade wiring kit on my Defender 90. Very easy to do with a little wiring expertise. I decided to mount relay on drivers side of engine bay and took power off the starter motor post. Very easy to do and much more room to mount relay. Thanks to JustinC (Hobart's Land Rover guru) for the advice.
Peter Thompson

hey jeff
hows the connection coming straight off the alternator??

could you give us an update???

cheers!

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Originally Posted by jik22

Defender loom fitted today. Noticeable difference in lighting output.

For now, I've not bothered with the circuit breaker supplied, as I've taken the power feed off the alternator to see how it works. Hence, a 6" cable run as opposed to a couple of metres back to the battery box, so not much in the way of wiring to protect!

If I notice a problem, I'll just add a new power wire back to the battery via the supplied circuit breaker.

Very neat job made simple by the kit - took under an hour to fit. Will grab a couple of pictures, though there's really not much to see except the relay on the nearside inner wing.

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hey jeff
hows the connection coming straight off the alternator??

could you give us an update???

cheers!

Hi all,

sorry to hijack the topic.

but since all alternators are equipped with a voltage regulator, what is wrong with connecting the headlights to the alternative???
the capacity of the one on my puma is 60 amps so theoretically, without any other accessories on, it should be able to power 720w headlights....

Am i wrong???:wasntme::wasntme: