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Hi Jason and the D4-5U is one of a number of new kits specifically designed for the D4.
My kits work very well in conjunction with the D4’s BMS and gives far better charging results than any other type of dual battery set up in a D4, but my isolators also help to keep the cranking battery in a fully charged state, something no other system can do.
To date, there has not been one single issue with D4s equipped with any of my DBS kits, and not just here but all around the globe.
Cheers, Tim
Hello Tim
I have been right through this message stream and have a question. When connecting from the Main Cranking Battery to the Auxhilary Battery, where do you recommend the USI-160 is mounted and how do you suggest you get the power cable to the Auxhilary battery in a new D4 if it is mounted in the back of the D4.
Thanks
Rod
Hi folks and just letting you know that there has been a thread update on my D4 Dual Battery Kits.
The D4 kits on my web site can be fitted to either D3s or D4s but are specifically designed for D4s up to MY13 models.
But with the auxiliary battery compartment being available in the MY14 D4s, you now have a choice of either a D4 specific DBS kit, supplied with a battery tray, or you can now fit any of my D3 kits or the D3 Triple Battery Kits in a MY14 D4.
I have just upgraded all my D3 and D4 kits, making them almost completely Plug-N-Play which means they are easier and quicker to fit and there is a much more informative set of installation instructions supplied with each kit.
These new instruction contain for more photos of the installation techniques use to carry out a kit fitting, make the whole installation a much simpler job.
For more info on my D3 and D4 kits, please check out my web site.
Off to collect my brand new D4 shortly:cool::cool::cool::cool: A DBS is on the must fit list.Quote:
Originally Posted by drivesafe
Andrew
Hi Tim,
I'm building a pod for my 130 and rather than fitting the auxiliary battery under the seat I'm looking to place it in the pod in a battery box and running the charge wire from the SC80 under the passenger seat to the pod. Do you see any issue with this and what gauge wire will I need for the charge wire. The aux battery is an Optima yellow top.
I'll also need to order a SC80 as I'm regretting leaving the SC40 in my old Disco 3 now.........
Regards,
Tote
Hi Tote, I and my pocket are quite pleased you left your old SC40 in your D3.
No seriously, the SC40 has been out of production for around 5 years now? because most new vehicle alternators are just to big for the 45 amp capacity the SC40 offered.
There have been a huge number of changes in the way a dual battery system needs to operate since the SC40 was first introduced over 25 years ago.
Even the SC80 was starting to fall behind what was needed and to that end, since the first of April this years, all orders shipped containing the SC80-CB, on and after that date have been supplied with the new SC80 Mark2.
The SC80 Mk2 looks and is installed exactly the same as the original SC80, but it now has a number of new features.
Many of the new features come from the DT90, the isolator used in my L322 Range Rover kits and my VW Kombi kits.
The old SC80 isolates the batteries when the common voltage gets down to 12.0v. If the vehicle was not used for some time, 2 to 4 weeks, depending on how high the State of Charge ( SoC ) of the batteries were in before the vehicle was last used. Over the 2 to 4 weeks the SC80 would progressively discharge the batteries down to 12.0v and the isolator would then shut off.
Like the DT90, the SC80 now has a TIME-OUT function, where it shuts down 72 hours after the motor was last on.
This was the primary reason for upgrading the SC80 but there are a number of other important new features added, like REVERSE CHARGING after the isolator has shut down. Plus the Green LED has now been replace with a bicoloured RED and GREEN LED and this now indicates a number for different operations, including a basic battery charge capacity indicator.
There are a number of other features in the new SC80, but this covers the main ones.
So Tote, you have picked the right time to upgrade.
Now to your intended setup, as long as you use decent cabling, 6B&S ( 13.5mm2 ) would be my recommendation, all will be fine.
Hi Tim,
My parents have just bought themselves a new D4. The dealer installed an anderson plug for their camper trailer and caravan, but didn't install an isolator.
I take it all I need to get for them is an SC-80? Nothing else?
Regards
Tom
Hi Tom, if the cabling to the rear is the correct size and it has been run through the cab of the D4, then yes, all you need is the SC80 isolator.
The dealers quite often use their local auto electrician to install new cabling and auto electricians often fit the wrong size cable and in the wrong place.
First check that they have run the cabling through the cab and NOT down the chassis rail.
Then try measuring the cable DIAMETER at the Anderson plug.
The copper and insulation, should be 7.5mm2 ( 6B&S ) or thicker. If the cable is around 5.5mm2 ( 8B&S ) or thinner ( 6mm AUTO which is actually 4.5mm2 ), then the cabling is useless.
Also make sure the cable is protected properly.
If the cabling is 5.5mm2, the maximum fuse or circuit breaker rating is 40 amps and if it is thinner than the maximum rating is 30 amps.
If the cabling is 7.5mm2 then the maximum fuse or circuit breaker rating is is 60 amps, but don't be surprised if you fine a 100 amp fuse or circuit breaker, another common auto electrician's error.
Another way to get an idea if the cable is too thin or the correct size, hold a YELLOW crimp terminal next to the cable and see if it looks like it will fit into a YELLOW crimp terminal.
If it does, then the cabling is too thin because 8B&S is the largest cabling that will fit in YELLOW crimp terminals.
If the cable looks to be about the same size as a YELLOW crimp terminal, then it sound like it is the correct size.
Thanks Tim
So the dealership did the job inhouse and they have stated that they used 6mm cable. Apparently when questioned, they said that this is the Australian Standard. Im an electrician myself, so I know that what they have said is a complete throw away statement. Cable sizing depends on several factors.
I havent had a look myself, but Im guessing its only 4.5mm2 of copper as you suggest.
Whats the importance of running through the cab and not along the chassis? Again, havent looked to see where it runs yet.
Hi again Tom, and the importance of running the cable through the cab, with Land Rover's wire looms, is that if there is a need to work on the engine, like to fix a turbo or what ever, they lift the body off the chassis and any cabling run through the chassis rail is simply cut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Beery
While most auto electricians do not know how to setup dual battery systems, dealerships do not even have auto electricians employed, so the chances of them getting it right are very slim.
MLR in Victoria are one of very few dealerships, Land Rover or otherwise, who know how to setup dual battery systems properly.
Tom, my guess is that not only will the "wiring" be too thin to ever charge a battery in a caravan, but that "wiring" will be dangerous because they will have used too high a rated fuse or circuit breaker.
I have already been down this road with some one who had had his LR dealership wire up his new RR and nearly burnt it to the ground.
Check the setup in the D4 and get back to me.