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He did extremely well that place is nuts. Most people won't see the significance of this but it was a paddle only event!!! That is the overwhelming majority of big waves that you'll see people surfing are usually all tow in (towed behind a jet ski to the perfect spot and towed onto the wave and set in prime position before the wave even thinks about breaking so if not ideal you can pull off and not let go of tow line) not to say it doesn't take balls to tow in to big waves (it does) but paddling in is a whole other level. Just paddling into position takes endurance, skill and balls that most of us mere mortals just do not possess then there is actually paddling onto the mountain of a wave. Paddling in to a wave like that requires you to commit 100% before you know how the wave will turn out. This goes out exponentially at a place like this as it's not like a nice mechanical reef break that breaks in the same place every time. It's a nasty beachie that has a mind of it own so each wave is very different and can close out at any time.
Sorry that was a long winded way of saying well done and hats off to a super human effort IMHO.
Originally Posted by bob10
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