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Thread: Tyre Changer Stand

  1. #1
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    Tyre Changer Stand

    I am in the market for a tyre changing stand to make the job a bit easier at and at waist level instead of bending over.
    Has anyone purchased one of these or a similar one?
    If so I would be interested in any feed back about them.


    Cheers, Mick.
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    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #2
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    Can't give you any feedback but I would expect they would have to be bolted to the floor. I have seen one mounted on a bullbar ages ago - I didn't see it used in action. Another alternative would be a good, large, heavy tree stump I guess.

  3. #3
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    I have one of the red ones. And yes they have to be bolted down. Have only installed one tyre with it so far but it sure beats using a rubber mallet and tyre levers. Main thing is to use a suitable tyre lube with it - definitely makes it easy.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  4. #4
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    you can also just build one.

    a stack of progressively smaller rims to get the height a bar welded to the center (a rangie drive axle bolted to a hub thats then bolted to the top landrover rim works well to center that up) to give you the post

    a landy stub axle and hub slid over the top and welded in place to give you the rotating head with a disc cut from a rim to give you the plate (again from a rangie or other landy)

    depending on your spares stash it could cost you as little as $30
    Dave

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  5. #5
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    Thanks for the feedback gents.
    I intend to bolt mine down to mother earth with a wheelbarrow full of
    concrete as I don't need it to be transportable.
    Blacknight I had considered knocking one up myself, but then just did a bit of looking around and I found that Supercheap have the SCA one which is similar to that red one for $96 (supposedly down from $137).


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  6. #6
    Bearman's Avatar
    Bearman is offline TopicToaster Gold Subscriber
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    Same here Mick, I was going to build one but for the price I decided to buy one.
    Cheers......Brian
    1985 110 V8 County
    1998 110 Perentie GS Cargo 6X6 ARN 202516 (Brutus)

  7. #7
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    Had one for a while...

    Hard yakka at times but mine works well when i can..

    Know guys that bolt them to pallets and use them
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  8. #8
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    Have and used the red one with success. Sure beats mallet and tyre levers. Lux flakes and a dish mop work well as a lube.
    Pallet idea sounds good
    PaulT

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  9. #9
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    Have you guys tried wheels with modern "bloody tight" tires and safety lands on the wheels. I've found you can peel the bead down over the safety land ... but it pops back as it's so bloody tight... you need two bead breakers in a row to peel enough thread over the safety land so it stays displaced long enough to move your bead breaker further around the wheel and peel the next bit of bead down over the safety land etc...

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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  10. #10
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    As Shane says,the alloy landy wheels are tight due to their safety features.If you are buying it for landy alloys try one before you buy.
    The tyre shops struggle with their gear and landy alloys.It should be fine for steel wheels.
    Andrew
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