Wire terminal Crimper recommendation

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

I never use insulated terminals.
The non insulated are much harder to find but, non insulated and a bit of heat shrink are far superior to insulated terminals.

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I disagree with you, insulated terminals are extremely reliable so long as you buy quality. Narva ones are very good. And I've used many thousands of the things over the last 30 years on LPG conversions. The trouble as you say is finding non insulated terminals, and I'll add that most on the market now are complete rubbish. It's been 20 years since I could buy a box of Utilux non insulated terminals and about 10 years since I've been able to buy supplies of decent nickel plated ones through my LPG supplier. The extremely thin plain brass ones that most sellers stock aren't worth touching, a bit of damp air and they fail to carry any meaningful current without melting their holders.

The main lot I bought from Ebay from the USA several years ago and they are fantastic..

I bought some smaller ones a couple of years ago from an Oz ebay seller. These are not as good as the USA ones but OK .
I have never had one fail.
The method used with insulated terminals of using a curved crimper is IMHO in no way comparable with the fold and crimp method with non insulated terminals. IE the type shown in the first photo where one side of the anvil is curved to a point to fold the terminal. The way to tell of course is to give the terminal a good tug to test whether it is holding.

Regards Philip A

RS Components have 1000 non insulated crimp ring terminals to chose from , I suspect a similar amount of spade / bullet connectors

Crimp Ring Terminals - for online sales of Terminals & Splices| RS Components

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PhilipA

The main lot I bought from Ebay from the USA several years ago and they are fantastic..

I bought some smaller ones a couple of years ago from an Oz ebay seller. These are not as good as the USA ones but OK .
I have never had one fail.
The method used with insulated terminals of using a curved crimper is IMHO in no way comparable with the fold and crimp method with non insulated terminals. IE the type shown in the first photo where one side of the anvil is curved to a point to fold the terminal. The way to tell of course is to give the terminal a good tug to test whether it is holding.

Regards Philip A

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A standard ratchet crimper on a standard insulated terminal will give you a join that is as strong as you need it to be, no special pointy bit required. The ferrules inside these terminals are like the battery cable terminals, crush them and they deform to have a very permanent grip on the wire. Any time I need to remove one of those things, I have to cut off the crimped bit as it won't let go any other way.

I think I paid $20 for my ratchet crimper at SCA, first one I've ever bought I've been using the manual ones forever. I can't believe I've been struggling for 2 decades with those useless things. Check for a loose terminal, try and try to recrimp it and in the end use a new one anyway, so much time and too many terminals wasted.
I normally buy the small packs of NARVA terminals, but this time I bought a massive packet of "calibre" ones. I don't like the look of them, colour is a real dull red. I know that sounds stupid but every time I use ones that are a bit different in color to the norm, the sheath always cracks and falls apart. It's happened a few times when I've bought random branded ones they seem to crack and break.
The SCA brand one's in the small packets of 25 I found to be really good quality and never had a problem with them, but these calibre ones I think I may return before I open them.

Get a ratchet crimper, even if you only spend $20 or so for starters it will pay for itself first time you use it.

Cheers Jim

If you’re after good quality crimp lugs try your local electrical wholesaler they usually will stock the better brand?? Also will have a good quality crimp tool as well.

Hand Crimpers - Products | CABAC

I'm crimping most days. I love my old school Utilux crimping pliers.
Had them for twenty five years after going through a few sets of ratchet crimpers and failed crimps.

Unfortunately I can't post photos from tapatalk.

I called in to Jaycar today and found these. At $40.00 They look robust enough and I doubt I'll wear them out before I'm worn out. Now to stock up on connectors
Thanks to all for the help with the process.
Don.

I'm a fan of good crimping however for larger terminals and anything on boats I have wired over the years I take the time to heat silver solder using a MAP torch (short of an Oxy the only thing that gets that solder hot enough) in the lug, then do a quick dip of the wire to tin the wire then add some more solder, heat and dip and hold. Then heat shrink with stiff walled impregnated heat shrink and done. I only use tin coated copper multi strad too for the boat. I never have electrical issues after I do the wiring properly. I know I can use the boat year after year and never any probs.

Cheers

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Originally Posted by Don 130

I called in to Jaycar today and found these. At $40.00 They look robust enough and I doubt I'll wear them out before I'm worn out....

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I have a pair that are dead ringers (First Forever brand), but well worn. Would have to be 25+ years old now and have done a LOT of work. Best crimpers I've ever had for the smaller stuff (say under 10mm2). Above that size the hydraulic ones are the bees knees (like shown in an earlier post). This stuff is so cheap nowadays...