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Colin make sure you have the right roller in it for steel wire.
You should have got a few with the unit when you purchased it new.
If the serrated roller is used on steel wire after a while you get a build up of fine dust/filings in the feed tube and it causes feed issues.
Cheers, Mick.
Mick,Quote:
Originally Posted by mick88
Only one came with it (from what I can remember from 30 odd years ago), not serrated but always worked OK.
Problem seems to be resolved. There is no friction adjustment on the spool (it's controlled by a spring). The plastic spool was 'picking up' on the plastic spigot, lots of dust and scuff marks on the inside of the spool so creating way too much friction.
Will confirm it's OK at the weekend.
Colin
Since starting this post I've been gifted a Unimig but still want to fix this old MIG welder.
I decided to look at the liner, problem is I can't find a source for a replacement.
Its black PTFE 4mm OD, it actually terminates in a pneumatic fitting at the torch end. There is a coiled wire liner for the torch.
I'm using 0.6mm wire.
It's a BOC Migmaster Turbo 130 but was sold under Cebora and Snap-On brands from my limited research.
I could replace the torch but as it's a backup welder I really don't want to spend much fixing it.
Anyone know where to get PTFE tubing 4mm OD 1mm ID ?
Colin
Gromit
For a number of years I’ve used bobthewelder.com.au for supplies
I reckon if you contacted them they would be able to get you out of trouble?
S
I have a BOC MIG about 23 years old, can swap the polarity around for gas or flux core, still going.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
A welding supplier should be able to provide a liner of some sort. You may have to trim it.
I had trouble with the pinch roller. The top and bottom rollers on my machine sit on separate plastic plates. Despite being held by two screws the bottom plate moved away from the top plate, thus widening the pinch gap, to the point that no amount of tension adjustment would pinch the wire sufficiently. Remedy was to undo the bottom platte securing screws and move the bottom plate back to its original point - the holes in the bottom plate are slotted giving opportunity for this creeping, and the screws can't bear down enough on the plastic to ensure no movement at all.
Interesting to see if yours had a made in Finland sticker.
I've tried a couple of welding suppliers including BOC & also Ebay for a liner with no success.Quote:
Originally Posted by workingonit
This one is made in Italy I think.
Several articles on the internet and in many cases people (in the UK) are changing the torch to get round the problem.
Colin
Looks like 4mm OD with 2mm ID is a common size but not 1mm ID.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
Some liners (PTFE Binzel for example) have a collet style end on the liner.
Tweco is more of a crimped on fitting. There are not too many different end fitting styles.
The liner is only there to guide the wire thru the torch lead. It doesn't hold gas, it doesn't carry power. So within reason, as long as the liner is loosely sized to your wire diameter, and it fits in the torch cable, you should be right. Then you just need to work out how it is secured on the drive roll end - looks like a grub screw of some description in this case? The burny-end of the torch liner usually just rests against the back of the contact tip
2mm bore is available in 4mm OD but seems a bit big for 0.6mm wire.Quote:
Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger
Torch end terminates at the gas valve in a pneumatic fitting then spiral wire from there. Other end clamped in place.
Unusual design and hence parts difficult to source from my limited research.
Colin
I recently reco'ed my little unimig mini 120. It's well over twenty years (or more) old and the wire had seized up in the liner. Cost me about $16 delivered for a new one off of ebay. Australian seller. Very good to deal with. Really knows his stuff.
https://www.ebay.com.au/str/weldersonline
Tom.