Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: Compressor 6mm tube

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    455
    O and measured the tube to be 6mm exact...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane some of the time
    Posts
    9,617
    Quote Originally Posted by TheEntertainer View Post

    Cant do this with the nylon...
    Thats a flare,so what does the nut look like?

    So if its 6mm,then 1/4" copper tube is no good.

    i will have a look in the morning to see what size the aluminium tube is we use,hopefully there is some in the shed,but i don't know what pressure it is rated at.
    paul

    D4 MY12 white,2.7(with a few more killer wasps) rear air,e diff,xenons,arb bar,7 seat ,18" bfg KO2

    Puma Defender 110 (son's)ARB
    bar,snorkle,rocksliders,rack,KM3's,BAS chip

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56

  3. #13
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    28,095
    Quote Originally Posted by TheEntertainer View Post
    Hi, i bought some nylon 6mm, unfortunately the fitting on the non return valve is not a compression type. Instead the alloy was flanged out and fits without a compression fitting.
    Ahhh. The P38A EAS line runs at up to 160psi so it could have been OK. The P38A air lines use push-in fittings like those pictured. You might be able to adapt some.

    Composite Push in Fittings, Pneumatic Push to Connect Fittings


    s-l640.jpg
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    25,521
    use 1/4 copper and a brake double flaring tool only use the first flare, seal the thread and back of the flare with loctite 567 and let is stand for at least 24 hours to set up.

    common as.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    TDI D1(parting/ed)
    Tdi autoManual d1 (Kept it for the girlfriend)
    Archaeopteryx 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    4,751
    Quote Originally Posted by p38arover View Post
    Ahhh. The P38A EAS line runs at up to 160psi so it could have been OK. The P38A air lines use push-in fittings like those pictured. You might be able to adapt some.

    Composite Push in Fittings, Pneumatic Push to Connect Fittings


    s-l640.jpg
    The burst pressure of Nylon tube drops significantly as the temperature rises plus the seal in a pneumatic fitting would typically only be rated to 60C.
    Most compressors use a metal section because the temperature can get to a point where you leave skin behind if you touch it.

    Aluminium would have been used for low cost (and heat dissipation), steel or copper could be used as a replacement. Copper easier to flare.



    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '60 SII 109 ute (gone)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Brisbane some of the time
    Posts
    9,617
    The aluminium tube I have here is 6.3mm,so 1/4 inch.

    Have seen 6 mm copper tube,Stubbs on some of our compressers made in Europe are 6mm,but never seen it anywhere else.Wont be available in Australia.

    I would try 1/4 copper first and see how you go.

    Any AC or Refrig mechanic would have a piece or a gas fitter.
    paul

    D4 MY12 white,2.7(with a few more killer wasps) rear air,e diff,xenons,arb bar,7 seat ,18" bfg KO2

    Puma Defender 110 (son's)ARB
    bar,snorkle,rocksliders,rack,KM3's,BAS chip

    '56 S1,been in the family since...'56

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    455
    Hi, thanks for all the help so far. Flanged the tube and it seems the be holding 8bar just fine. Not sure how long the tube will hold though... would prefer the alloy tube later on.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Koojan WA (part time Perth)
    Posts
    251
    Quote Originally Posted by TheEntertainer View Post
    Hi, thanks for all the help so far. Flanged the tube and it seems the be holding 8bar just fine. Not sure how long the tube will hold though... would prefer the alloy tube later on.
    Let us know how the nylon goes, Iím sure the heat will be the killer???

    I found the compressor that I replaced the alloy tube with copper
    I think I drilled the flare nuts out with a 1/4Ē bit??? Maybe 7mm???
    I assembled it about 5 years ago and itís survived the ďfarm service trailerĒ flogging Compressor 6mm tube
    (Even the old Thumper compressor has survived)

    1985 110 Dual Cab 4.6 R380 ARB Lockers (currently NIS due to roof kissing road)
    1985 110 Station Wagon 3.5 LT85 (unmolested blank canvas)

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!