Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 14

Thread: Portable Sand Blaster

  1. #1
    Lionelgee is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,814
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Portable Sand Blaster

    Hello All,

    Has anyone bought and used one of these portable sandblasters? It has a 37 litre capacity and runs at 60-125 PSI.

    I would like to sandblast a chassis and firewall; plus some steel 20 inch radius truck rims.

    Would this machine be up to the task?

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
    No one of consequence
    Supporter
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Perth (near Malaga)
    Posts
    2,862
    Total Downloaded
    0
    How big is your compressor?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,251
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Do not buy..they are crap..mine is now an oil receiver cause as a blaster it was useless. Sand packs in the base and if you do finally get it flowing it eats the hose...valves and end nozzle.

    Go see a professional for proper blasting.

    These are a waste of money unless you want to convert it to an under hoist oil receiver😞

  4. #4
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    30,160
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I have a Samson sand blasting gun - it consumes more air than my 13cfm compressor can supply. Sand needs to be totally dry so that it doesn't clog. Sand goes in a pot under the gun, just like a spray gun paint pot.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Has anyone bought and used one of these portable sandblasters? It has a 37 litre capacity and runs at 60-125 PSI.

    I would like to sandblast a chassis and firewall; plus some steel 20 inch radius truck rims.
    As already mentioned, you need a very big compressor otherwise you blast for a few seconds then have to wait while the pressure builds up again.

    Also you have to buy the blasting media, using 'sand' is dangerous (silicosis).

    Portable Sand Blaster
    Sandblasting - my experience

    Wet blasting is possibly an option.
    Wet Sand Blaster

    I have a bigish 3phase compressor and one day will set up for blasting. At the moment, like others, I take my parts to a professional, handy if you can negotiate 'cash' rates.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Nowra NSW
    Posts
    3,906
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Has anyone bought and used one of these portable sandblasters? It has a 37 litre capacity and runs at 60-125 PSI.

    I would like to sandblast a chassis and firewall; plus some steel 20 inch radius truck rims.

    Would this machine be up to the task?

    Kind regards
    Lionel

    It will not be up to the job even if you have a big compressor.
    the hand piece will be ceramic tipped and will not last long.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    433
    Total Downloaded
    0
    You will need a 350 cfm compressor generally for blasting items like chassis wheels.
    You need proper PPE. Blast helmet at a minimum and breathing air.
    The gear to do big items is fair money even renting it ain't cheap.
    Its an intensive process blasting.


    You want a profile on steel for the paint to adhere to, 75 microns would be about right.

    If its a one off take it to a blast shop and get it blasted.
    They will have o/head cranes so the lot can be done in one hit, and abrasive reclamation.
    A proper blast stream and abrade any corrosion out enhancing coating life.

    Unless you live in a desert and its summer, it will flash rust before you can get the paint on it.
    ie trapping rust under the paint, a real no no. Corrosion will reappear before to long.
    Get them to paint it as well. Choose a high build epoxy for best results on the chassis.
    Do that all correctly and it will last for years.


    Don't waste your money on blast gear, buy a bristle blaster, it is your best bet if you are doing it by hand, but it will be (very) slow and the chassis must be in good nick.

    Clive

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,632
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Lionelgee View Post
    Hello All,

    Has anyone bought and used one of these...

    Kind regards
    Lionel
    I have one - its OK, but not the bees knees. Done a chassis, coach work etc. Slow, but better than a wheel in my opinion, particularly in tight or obscured places. My electric 3 horse power 2 cyl compressor runs almost continually. Need a booth or tent arrangement to be able to recycle the garnet, and protect passers by. Need independent filtered air supply and helmet. Plus peel of visors - number of times with opaque visors I've wondered why the dark spot wont go, to find it is a drill hole. Not something you would use in the modern cramped burbs for the safety of neighbors - the garnet settles quickly but dust may travel - bigger older block better = moving house? The supplied ceramic nozzles oversize very quickly, maybe in an hour or two, and the rubber pipe doesn't last long either; the simple cover over the nozzle to stop grit flow when resting, wears away in a few hours - ditched these for professional hose; and smallest diameter Boron Nitride(?) nozzle ($90 a few years ago), which Blast One said should last me about 300-400 hours with the pressures I use. They will block if you get a water spit past the compressor water filter, they will also block if recycling grit, blockage from very fine waste dust. I wash my garnet to rid of the fines and dust - lay out on concrete in sun dries soon. Also have one of those boxes with gloves - leaks dust like a sieve, requiring P2 or better P3 face mask. Having the gear is good once you get set up. I got a big single door fridge from the dump, waiting to be converted so I can do up to axle housing size items without a tent/booth.

    Dan Gelbart explains the time frame you have to paint your stuff after blasting. Has a whole series of fascinating vids...built his own granite bed lathe, explaining why a fellow might want to machine to a thou of a mm - drool with envy! Woody Alan of metal working...

    Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings - YouTube

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    1,251
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    I have one - its OK, but not the bees knees. Done a chassis, coach work etc. Slow, but better than a wheel in my opinion, particularly in tight or obscured places. My electric 3 horse power 2 cyl compressor runs almost continually. Need a booth or tent arrangement to be able to recycle the garnet, and protect passers by. Need independent filtered air supply and helmet. Plus peel of visors - number of times with opaque visors I've wondered why the dark spot wont go, to find it is a drill hole. Not something you would use in the modern cramped burbs for the safety of neighbors - the garnet settles quickly but dust may travel - bigger older block better = moving house? The supplied ceramic nozzles oversize very quickly, maybe in an hour or two, and the rubber pipe doesn't last long either; the simple cover over the nozzle to stop grit flow when resting, wears away in a few hours - ditched these for professional hose; and smallest diameter Boron Nitride(?) nozzle ($90 a few years ago), which Blast One said should last me about 300-400 hours with the pressures I use. They will block if you get a water spit past the compressor water filter, they will also block if recycling grit, blockage from very fine waste dust. I wash my garnet to rid of the fines and dust - lay out on concrete in sun dries soon. Also have one of those boxes with gloves - leaks dust like a sieve, requiring P2 or better P3 face mask. Having the gear is good once you get set up. I got a big single door fridge from the dump, waiting to be converted so I can do up to axle housing size items without a tent/booth.

    Dan Gelbart explains the time frame you have to paint your stuff after blasting. Has a whole series of fascinating vids...built his own granite bed lathe, explaining why a fellow might want to machine to a thou of a mm - drool with envy! Woody Alan of metal working...

    Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings - YouTube
    This is exactly my experience before I junked it to an oil receiver. I use a needle scaler for heavy rust and paint removal (eg on dozers etc) then wire wheel BUT note we are rural so no neighbours to annoy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Darwin
    Posts
    1,632
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by INter674 View Post
    BUT note we are rural so no neighbours to annoy.
    Yep, we're rural too - fire up the oil burning furnace with a cloud of smoke and when running clean sounds like a jet engine...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!