I have a older (Blue Apple) version of a similar unit. From memory I managed to remove the screws using a big phillips head screw driver.
The units just use std AGM UPS style batteries.
I have a WAECO RAPS36 COOLPOWER Battery pack that I want to repack, so I decided to investigate the internals to be sure that I purchased batts with terminals to suit and in so doing I fell at the first hurdle! when I encountered tamperproof screws securing the case halves together.
It would not be a problem if they were TORX but they’re ones I’ve not seen before. And to make things more difficult one screw head is damaged.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
I have a older (Blue Apple) version of a similar unit. From memory I managed to remove the screws using a big phillips head screw driver.
The units just use std AGM UPS style batteries.
Chris
2014 D4 TDV6
1954 86"
1963 2A Forward Control (getting the full treatment, Isuzu 4JH1, MYY5T, LT230, Toyota Axles, extended cab ++)
1980 Stage 1 v8 (gone)
I expected to need a phillips head driver but no.... Imagine a screw driver with the tip cut off and then 2 crosswise slots cut in the end so that it will mate to the raised cross in the screw head - that’s what I need and that’s the route I might have to take I can’t buy the right socket tool.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
[QUOTE=onebob;3075121]I have a WAECO RAPS36 COOLPOWER Battery pack that I want to repack, so I decided to investigate the internals to be sure that I purchased batts with terminals to suit and in so doing I fell at the first hurdle! when I encountered tamperproof screws securing the case halves together.
It would not be a problem if they were TORX but they’re ones I’ve not seen before. And to make things more difficult one screw head is damaged.
[2 x NEW 12V 18AH Sealed Lead-Acid Battery AGM > 17ah 4 UPS Solar Power Storage | eBay
I replaced with the above
The original wires are soldered to the terminals-I used the yellow insulated ring terminal and bolted the to the batteries.
Regarding the screws to split the box, I'm fairly certain I used a long thin square blade screw driver.
You will need to hold it against the screws with heaps of pressure- they are very tight!
Good luck
Mylesaway]
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
they are certainly doing their job, Stops you tampering. lol
Would not a piece of Steel Tube with slots cut into it do the job? Even a piece of steel rod might do it, both with a Tommy Bar hole on the other end
Whichever way you go it appears as though it will still require a fair old bit of inwards pressure to get a good grip as the head recesses look rather shallow.
Oh yes, LH or RH thread? There could be a further trick waiting for you there.
Good luck.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
I’d use a left handed drill bit and then an ezout. My other option would be to epoxy something like an Allen key (cheap and plentiful) in the head and wait for it to cure.
edit: after another look, I’d just get a flat blade screwdriver that fit as closely as possible and file a notch in the middle.
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