Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Can Anyone Identify this Centre Marking Tool?

  1. #11
    p38arover's Avatar
    p38arover is offline Major part of the heart and soul of AULRO.com
    Administrator
    I'm here to help you!
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Posts
    28,771
    I've always used the method shown to me in tech drawing class at high school, i.e., draw another line angled upward and starting at the same point of the line to be divided. Make it of such a length that one can mark off equidistant points, say, 10mm apart.

    From the last mark, draw a line down to the end of the line to be divided. Now draw lines parallel to that from each mark. The will divide the original line in equal spaces.

    Something like this:



    Compared with that, the rivet spacing tool is such a good idea.

    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    As many holes as you like, Simply mark them off using the measurments on the ruler
    Show me how.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2004 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  2. #12
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
    Posts
    18,818
    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    As many holes as you like, Simply mark them off using the measurments on the ruler
    Iíve got a ruler for that - this tool allows much faster positioning and accuracy too - I would actually use this for riveting as thatís one of my favourite fastening methods. I do usually use a ruler to mark out the spacing but I could drill the holes and be done in the same time it takes to just mark them with a ruler.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1977 Jaguar XJ6

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Geraldton WA
    Posts
    6,826
    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Iíve got a ruler for that - this tool allows much faster positioning and accuracy too - I would actually use this for riveting as thatís one of my favourite fastening methods. I do usually use a ruler to mark out the spacing but I could drill the holes and be done in the same time it takes to just mark them with a ruler.
    Drill holes into a parallel ruler and you have your device
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

    2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods
    2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
    4.6m Quintrex boat
    20' Jayco Expanda caravan

  4. #14
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Gold Subscriber
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Sunbury, VIC
    Posts
    18,818
    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    Drill holes into a parallel ruler and you have your device
    But itís not adjustable, nor as accurate most likely and by the time you measure and drill a template you could have done the job. Also, if you have to make a different template up for every job itís far easier to buy this tool.


    1977 101 FC - 'Chucky'
    1986 Classic RR - 'Thing'
    1977 Jaguar XJ6

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    The new Gold Coast, after ocean rises,Queensland
    Posts
    11,540
    I did plenty of skin repairs on aeroplanes but never used a tool like that , would have been good .

    how small can it measure?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Bayview NSW
    Posts
    32

    Handy old tools

    Ahhhh! Good engineering tools from the "good old days" . . . love'em. When men were men and engineers were engineers.

    I've got some beauties inherited from my dad when we used to fix everything ourselves in our cars . . all pre television and computers days.
    We then had to use what is known as our brains and what we were taught in mathematics at school. I'm talking from a school time in 1945-1950.

    We simply thought about the spacing and how many spaces we wanted. Measure the distance and divide that length by the number of spaces you thought adequate.
    Then using the spring callipers, open them to the measured space distance, then walk them along the line. Of course the callipers had many other uses . . scribing circles and quadrants etc.

    But it's easier today . . . in metric. Try dividing this length of iron bar into 7 equal pieces allowing for the saw cut width . . . a length of - 3yards 2ft 4Ĺ inches with a blade width of 3/16 inch
    No calculators please - they hadn't been invented.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Upwind
    Posts
    1,846
    That device looks useful in the workshop for sure.

    I use a long piece of large bungy cord elastic in a similar way when fencing on the farms. For batten spacing between posts and placing posts in a stock yard setting or shorter stretches. Place equi-distant marks on a slightly stretched length of elastic. Stretch the bungy elastic between the points you want equal spacing for and "ta daaa". Has saved much time messing about on the hillside with tape measures.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!