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Thread: 97 300tdi chassis/engine harness connector de pin help

  1. #1
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    97 300tdi chassis/engine harness connector de pin help

    After the stop solenoid (white) wire rubbed through on the block and ... lots of smoke from the dash/immobiliser a few years ago, covid has helped me get to fixing the random no starting problem. Tracked the new (double sheathed) wire back from pump and found both the male and female pins in the connectors are damaged causing intermitent non contact. All other wires/pins seem fine over last few years. Can anyone suggest how the pins can be detached from the connectors, and where to get the connectors if I need a new one? Thx

  2. #2
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    which '97 300 tdi?

    Disco or Defender .. major differences in wiring.

    But in general most of these types of connectors work the same way. Not the more modern connector types tho.

    I've had a peek at the main loom section for the shut off solenoid(in RAVE) and for a Disco it's a 7 pin connector.

    What you usually do with this connector type to remove the pins(both female and male sides) is use a very fine, but very sturdy/rigid ultra thin poking to get behind the connector, on top of the wire and feel for the copper connectors latch.
    Proper poking tools, or ground down stainless 'something' .. if you have any sewing needles, the larger sized needles also work. The main feature of this poking tool is that it needs to be very thin, but very rigid too.
    From behind the face of the connector(both M and F types), again from the upper section of the wire, the connector has a latch that springs up into the connector to keep the pins held from sliding back when the two halves are pushed together.

    So with the thin tool you have(made of found) above the wire, behind the face of the connector where the wire goes into .. slide in, and wriggle about a little. You most likely can not see in there, but you get a feel for it. Whilst feeling for the latch on the connector you also need a small amount of pull out force on the wire too. Basically a bit of luck will be struck and you happen upon the latch with a bit of pull on the wire and bongo! .. it comes loose.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  3. #3
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    Talking

    Thanks Arthur! This is a Defender, the offending (13pin) connector pic here. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/attach/jpg.gif But looking through the RAVE diagrams I can see the 7 pin D139 connector on the immobiliser drawing which shows all brown wires, with A41 going to fuel solenoid, Charge/start drawing shows an 11 pin D153 with the only white wires going to a 'diagnostic socket'!....have I been missing out all this time?

    Had another look at the connector and can see the small holes under/over the pin holes on the face of the connector. Found a suitable bit of stainless, ground down fingers on grinder also, and might need to have another go before I destroy the plastic too much. From your explanation I might be on the wrong side with the poker, though not obvious. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/attach/jpg.gif

    More patience.
    Cheers again.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
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    Ah! different to the D1.

    Apologies I have no experience with this connector type(yet). If I find one to play with, I'll see if I can figure it out too.

    BUT!! Now I'm not sure on the pin configs for your Defer, I can have a sift through the rave wiring diag, but have you noticed the half burnt pin on both the male and female side of this connector?

    On the female connector, the half burnt pin is on the RHS column, second pin down from the top, and on the male side, it's the second from the top, first LHS column.

    That pin surely would be causing an intermittent/non connection from wherever to whatever.
    Arthur.

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto

  5. #5
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    These are the flash way to get ya wires out

    Sydney Tools

  6. #6
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    Element 14 might have what you're after.

    https://au.element14.com/extensive-c...caAnNfEALw_wcB

    Don.

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