Thread: Chain Saw blade sharpener

Originally Posted by windsock

I follow the Trout and 350RRC way and go with one sharpen to every two or three fills using the files. I use the husqvarna roller sharpening guide tool. I have a dedicated tree/firewood saw and a dedicated fencing/misc saw and have roller guide tools for sharpening each one. As these fit over the chain links themselves and move with the chain, I find them better than tools that clamp to the bar as the chains have lateral movement and this distorts angles when filing.


Amazon.com: Husqvarna Combination roller guide for 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain, Blue, 10 x 2 x 10 cm : Patio, Lawn & Garden

I use something similar to this - nothing like as complicated as the usual jig/rig - just something that sits over the bar and you lock the chain-brake and put the file in a slide-guide - then the usual - good quality file, cutting stroke to the sharp end, pushing 'up' slightly so that the tooth is sharp, particularly the corner, but you're sharpening 'the whole blade, not the tooth'. I also clamp the bar into a (wood lined or improvised) vise.
And it gets to near-new sharp; straight cuts, big chips.
(always put it away sharp!!)

I'd tried a number of solutions over the (40+) years - little whirling files (which wore out in no time) - pure-by-hand - complicated spindly rigs - this system (bought from Outdoor Power Centre Tuggeranong, not pricey, maybe $30?) and pure-by-hand (with improvised field vise) have given the best results - with this small, guided system winning by a notable margin.

Originally Posted by gromit

As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

Colin

Drawing on my experiences an area manager for McCulloch chainsaws back in the 80's I am aware that under some circumstances, some chains will "self harden" making them difficult to sharpen. An electric sharpener can have a burning effect if pressed hard.
It's usually a cheaper chain that does it.

I have used this stihl file and guide for years on several saws. Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.

This does the job well, easy to use and I always store the saw with a sharpened chain.

Originally Posted by Mickman

I recommend one of these

2-in-1 File Holder -

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These are great, they file the depth gauge and sharpen simultaneously.

Originally Posted by DeeJay

Drawing on my experiences an area manager for McCulloch chainsaws back in the 80's I am aware that under some circumstances, some chains will "self harden" making them difficult to sharpen. An electric sharpener can have a burning effect if pressed hard.
It's usually a cheaper chain that does it.

I think I'm just going to stick with cheap chains. As detailed in the first post mine is only used when branches drop or I need to do some pruning.

5 or 6 tanks of fuel and change the chain (if it's blunt), that will cover several years of usage.

Originally Posted by BushDisco

Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.

There are a lot that are 12V DC and have clips to attach straight to your car battery.

Colin

I’ve been buying the Hurricane brand chains online from Jono and Jono. Pay about $50 for 3x 16” chains
The teeth are definitely harder and I’ve had the complete upper part of the tooth break off hitting crap in old framing timber.
With good chain it would typically just chip the edge.

Ive always just hand sharpened regularly but even good files hardly touch these cheap ones.
I bought a cheap $50 electric sharpener off eBay. Hardly a precision tool but it puts an edge back on the teeth so makes them useful again. It’s pretty much all plastic and I had to mount it to a block of wood so I could clamp it in the vice and get a half decent result.
If I was doing more volume of clean wood I’d go for decent chain and just keep them sharp, but for the miscellaneous crap I throw the saw at it it’s not worthwhile.

Steve

Originally Posted by BushDisco

I have used this stihl file and guide for years on several saws. Used to use electric jobs but mostly rubbish, complex and no use in the Bush of course.

This does the job well, easy to use and I always store the saw with a sharpened chain.

These are the best, Ive tried the other methods but these are so simple to use. It sharpens the cutting faces at the same time as It's reducing the height of the rakes. Simples!
Also when you purchase one of these Stihl tools you have to choose which size chain your using.

Originally Posted by trout1105

I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved

Remember the K.I.S.S principle

Yes, i'm the same. i use Stihl files in an angle guide, and after watching a couple of youtubes I realised how to do it right. After a couple of hours' work it may take 4-5 strokes ( pushing outwards only) per tooth to get it all ready for the next time. Maybe 1-2 files/ year, and i don't frind too much metal from the teeth either. It's a 5 minute job in a vice.

Grinders are probably great, but it's me that I won't trust with anything thsat complex and/or destrcuctive!

Mike