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Thread: Chain Saw blade sharpener

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mickman View Post
    I recommend one of these

    2-in-1 File Holder -

    Attachment 175328
    This Stihl tool is foolproof, trims Rakers and Cutting teeth at the same time so you don't mess up the design characteristics and ruin the chain. It has guide lines to get the correct holding angle.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    I looked into the same chains for the larger saw I have and the local saw joint quoted around $180 to sharpen it from memory.

    DL
    Going to a TC chain for me involved going down to a 18" bar and fitting a rim drive to my MS310 . Local Stihl shop charges 15 bucks to sharpen. It usually lasts a season of cutting, around 15 cu metres provided you keep it out of the dirt and don't hit rocks. I've just put in an 84 DL 3/8 .063 in to be sharpened . The local boys did say some places charge heaps to sharpen TC chains, trying to get a return on their expensive diamond sharpeners!

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by rm_rocky View Post
    Going to a TC chain for me involved going down to a 18" bar and fitting a rim drive to my MS310 . Local Stihl shop charges 15 bucks to sharpen. It usually lasts a season of cutting, around 15 cu metres provided you keep it out of the dirt and don't hit rocks. I've just put in an 84 DL 3/8 .063 in to be sharpened . The local boys did say some places charge heaps to sharpen TC chains, trying to get a return on their expensive diamond sharpeners!
    You can get you own diamond disc for a sharpening machine for about $100.00.
    Don.

  4. #34
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    Apr 2011
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    I use a cheap chain grinder to get the tooth lengths back if they get to far out, but as someone said, they need a consistent technique. Sharpen with files and clamp on guide, and gauge for the rakers. Hammer in stump/bar clamp are great in the bush if no suitable vice available..... I turn the tooth face into a banana when trying to sharpen chasing the saw around on the ground. Quick touch up every tank, change chain if I hit a rock or the like.
    After using a few different cheap chains, now usually stick with Sthil chains (3/8 LP, .325 & 3/8), lasting longer and I find them easier to sharpen.
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick1970 View Post
    I use a cheap chain grinder to get the tooth lengths back if they get to far out, but as someone said, they need a consistent technique. ......................
    I just do that by eye with a hand file............ if a tooth is a little longer than the rest it gets a couple of extra swipes each sharpen.

    Quite happy that I can get the full life out of a chain with it stihl cutting dead straight these days.

    DL

  6. #36
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    Feb 2013
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    I'm hopeless with a hand file... but I reckon I still do a better job than the cheap sharpener I've got. This is the youtube videos I was watching when I was trying to figure out what I was doing. I still suck, but at least the old saw actually cuts now.

    How to file a power saw (chain saw) - YouTube
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  7. #37
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    The cheap sharpeners remind of the mobile knife sharpeners that would frequent the restaurants i worked at,they would grind the **** out of the blades with no finesse at all. No way i was letting them near my expensive German blades with a bench grinder , i would always use my double sided stone and diamond coated steel.
    Only done it a few times but definitely find it better using a file on chains.
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  8. #38
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    Jan 2017
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    I have a set of butchering knives that are now more than 30 years old and they still have perfect edges on them because I have only ever used a stone and a steel to maintain the edge on them.
    I also NEVER let anyone else touch them

    Most of us that actually care for our cutting tools would NEVER even think about using a grinder on them.
    Axes, chisels, chansaw blades are sharpened with a stone/file only, Use a grinder on a carbon steel cutting edge and you will destroy the integrity of the metal in a heartbeat.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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