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Thread: Chain Saw blade sharpener

  1. #1
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    Chain Saw blade sharpener

    After having to cut up a lot of branches following the recent storms the chainsaw blade needed sharpening.
    For some reason files are not what they used to be and a couple I tried barely touched the blade.

    Has anyone had any joy with the cheap grinders on Ebay ? Waste of time ?

    The chainsaw only comes out when I need to do some pruning or dealing with fallen branches and to be honest 3 new blades were only $25 delivered !


    Colin
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  2. #2
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    I have an el cheapo Ozito sharper, $40 ex Bunnings. Excellent results after you figure out how to use it.

    3 chains for $25, have you actually tried them? Are they any good?
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  3. #3
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    I've got one like this, but mine is branded with a different name. It's been very reliable and has sharpened chains many dozens of times over about 10 years. Good value in my opinion.
    Don.

  4. #4
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    I suspect my Gardenline sharpener is the same as Don 130's and Ferret's. It's by no means a precision instrument, but if you're careful and as consistent as possible it gives a good result. I have about a dozen chains and once I've used half a dozen or so, I have a sharpening day. I don't touch up the chains in the field when they start to dull, I simply replace them, but I have completely restored chains for other people that they've let go blunt with uneven cutters and depth blades.
    A few pointers:
    1. Use a precision ruler (I use a Vernier caliper) for selecting the smallest cutter. Mark the top of the smallest cutter with a permanent marker and sharpen it first. If some of the other cutters are way longer, don't try to cut them to size in one go. Just take a smidgeon off at a time.
    2. Use the lubricant stick (usually provided with the tool) on the grinding wheel.
    3. When cutting, the wheel should lightly touch the cutter. I usually do three light cuts on each cutter. Remember, it is the corner of the cutter that does the sawing.
    4. Bolt the tool to your work bench. Even when firmly fixed, the tool will have lateral movement. In other words, the grinding arm can be made to move laterally as you bring it down to the cutter, so you could easily push it away from contact or bring it into too much contact. So choose a way that's comfortable for you to lower the arm and do it the same way each time.
    5. Wear eye protection!
    Finally, no matter how hard you try, and no matter how carefully you lay it down, a chainsaw chain will always manage to tie itself into an unfathomable knot that seems impossible to untie; each time you've just about got it, it manages to knot itself the other way. There is no known scientific explanation for why this happens, or how you always manage to untie it eventually without ever figuring out how. Just accept that some things in life are beyond explanation.
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  5. #5
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    I use a Demel with a Skil chain saw sharpening stone in the chuck - works great.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferret View Post
    I have an el cheapo Ozito sharper, $40 ex Bunnings. Excellent results after you figure out how to use it.

    3 chains for $25, have you actually tried them? Are they any good?
    It was one of these cheap chains that dulled after many hours of work. Seem perfectly OK.

    Quote Originally Posted by 101RRS View Post
    I use a Demel with a Skil chain saw sharpening stone in the chuck - works great.
    I'd seen the sharpening stones that fit in a Dremel, that was another option. Some on Ebay even come with a poor mans 'Dremel'.

    There are also a number of 'grinders' on Ebay that fit on the tip of the blade while in the saw, it looks like you run the saw and it grinds the top surface of each 'tooth'. I honestly can't see these doing anything except ruining the blade.


    Thanks for the responses, might have to get a cheapy and have a play although 3 chains for $25 means i need to sharpen a few to make it worthwhile.





    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
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  7. #7
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    I've got one of these, Amazon.com : Oregon 109178 Saw Chain Bar Mounted 12-Volt Mini Grinder/Sharpener : Bar Mount Chainsaw Sharpener : Patio, Lawn & Garden Does a good job but I keep 3 or 4 chains and it's a nuisance having to set up the grinder every time you mount a new chain. The mechanism to swap from one side to the other is also a bit fiddly and you have to check the angle every time. I bought it with the intention that I would be using it in the paddock but its easier to have a few chains rather than sharpening in the field.

    I suspect you can't buy them anymore, mine is made in Italy I think.

    Regards,
    Tote
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  8. #8
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    I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
    A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved

    Remember the K.I.S.S principle
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by trout1105 View Post
    I use a simple file and sharpen on a regular basis, Don't wait until the chain gets too blunt and starts to burn instead of cutting.
    A file works just fine and there is no fiddly setup involved

    Remember the K.I.S.S principle
    As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
    I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    As mentioned in the first post.....a file makes no impression on the teeth.
    I could try and find a better quality file but it may be the hardness of the teeth on the cheap chain.

    Colin
    The quality of the steel the teeth are made of on the cheap chains is all over the place.

    Once you have hit a couple of the extra hard teeth your file will be finished.

    Bench grinders are somewhat Quick and dirty, but I use them all time as well, but you need to pay around $120-150, any cheaper and they are not good, $500 is even better!

    That said, if you know how to sharpen properly I think the file gives the best result, maybe try and get a "better quality cheap brand chain".

    They do exist, I've got a couple rolls of some that don't seem too bad.... Maybe 5% under Oregon.

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