Hoist advice

The slab is vital. You don't want a Deefer ( or an OKA! ) on your head.

Also, when we were shopping for my son's Tuffit we looked at second hand. Nearly all were 3 phase. Do you have that? I don't recall exactly, but his two poster was maybe $3.5K new a year ago, and it lifts his laden GU wagon effortlessly. He installed it himself using their specs and instructions fairly easily.

The hoist that Scouse has is interesting. It's a 4-poster on wheels. He can move it around in his shed. It will carry a P38A (his) or an L322 (mine) - he's had them on the hoist.

When I bought mine Tufflift were the only ones that had a 6 tonne 4 poster with single phase, had all sorts of comments from other brands of single phase aren't made, too slow etc, at home it doesn't matter how long it takes it's still faster than a jack.
Having rolling jack beams on a 4 poster makes all sorts of jobs easier, can lift the entire vehicle off the hoist to do wheel rotations, remove complete axle and diff assemblies, suspension work etc.
I removed the front end completely with the Oka sitting on large stands under the chassis the engine and trans could be dropped on a rolling beam and then slid onto a lift table and lowered to the floor then rolled out from under the hoist and vehicle. Replacement is then a reverse procedure.
A two poster would be ideal for a Landrover body lift, don't think I would like to have 6 tonne on a two poster though especially as heavier vehicles tend to be longer.

Thanks everyone for the very useful advice. It’s great to benefit from actual experience.

I think a 2 post 4 tonne hoist will be enough. I cant see me lifting anything bigger than 2.5 tonne. I dont have any power to the shed yet, that’s another job. I will be fitting a 15 amp point but would prob prefer to keep it at single phase.

Ive seen that many used hoists are 3 phase power.

The concreter made provision for a two post hoist when pouring the shed slab.

Im looking at Tufflift and Aussie car lift sites. They look quite similar. What’s the advantage/disadvantage of base plate vs overhead plate?

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Originally Posted by rar110

Thanks everyone for the very useful advice. It’s great to benefit from actual experience.

I think a 2 post 4 tonne hoist will be enough. I cant see me lifting anything bigger than 2.5 tonne. I dont have any power to the shed yet, that’s another job. I will be fitting a 15 amp point but would prob prefer to keep it at single phase.

Ive seen that many used hoists are 3 phase power.

The concreter made provision for a two post hoist when pouring the shed slab.

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On the subject of power points: get more than you think you'll need. Costs a bit more but is way cheaper than adding them later. 15 amp is good, but consider at least one 32 amp. I bought my son a good MIG welder from BOC. It has a 15 amp plug fitted, but it turns out that was fro "demo" purposes. It needs 32 to run its duty cycle.

Splurge on good lights as well. Better to do it now during the build, if you can stretch the budget, cos you won't later. LED Highbay are pretty good.

Also, consider painting the floor. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference for keeping it clean from oil spills, and the reflected light is really worth it.

Before and after:
Attachment 184388Attachment 184389

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Originally Posted by oka374

When I bought mine Tufflift were the only ones that had a 6 tonne 4 poster with single phase, had all sorts of comments from other brands of single phase aren't made, too slow etc, at home it doesn't matter how long it takes it's still faster than a jack.
Having rolling jack beams on a 4 poster makes all sorts of jobs easier, can lift the entire vehicle off the hoist to do wheel rotations, remove complete axle and diff assemblies, suspension work etc.
I removed the front end completely with the Oka sitting on large stands under the chassis the engine and trans could be dropped on a rolling beam and then slid onto a lift table and lowered to the floor then rolled out from under the hoist and vehicle. Replacement is then a reverse procedure.
A two poster would be ideal for a Landrover body lift, don't think I would like to have 6 tonne on a two poster though especially as heavier vehicles tend to be longer.

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I want to bring #74 to your place!

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Originally Posted by p38arover

The hoist that Scouse has is interesting. It's a 4-poster on wheels. He can move it around in his shed. It will carry a P38A (his) or an L322 (mine) - he's had them on the hoist.

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I forgot to say this also has rolling jack beams so one can lift the front and/or rear to do wheel changes, brakes, etc.

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Originally Posted by Tins

On the subject of power points: get more than you think you'll need. Costs a bit more but is way cheaper than adding them later. 15 amp is good, but consider at least one 32 amp. I bought my son a good MIG welder from BOC. It has a 15 amp plug fitted, but it turns out that was fro "demo" purposes. It needs 32 to run its duty cycle.

Splurge on good lights as well. Better to do it now during the build, if you can stretch the budget, cos you won't later. LED Highbay are pretty good.

Also, consider painting the floor. Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a huge difference for keeping it clean from oil spills, and the reflected light is really worth it.

Before and after:
Attachment 184388Attachment 184389

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Thanks Tins, what paint did you use?

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Originally Posted by rar110

Thanks Tins, what paint did you use?

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Dulux Avista semi. There are others, it's what they had. It doesn't seem to chip if you drop something on it.

If you want to be a real cheapskate with painting the floor good old cheap water based wooden fence paint works well.
We painted a shed floor with it about 13 years ago and it's still holding up well.
A few years ago son had a brand new house and wanted to paint the double garage floor, as with most new homeowners funds were tight so I suggested fence paint, it's no longer as cheap as it once was and a bit harder to find but we did two coats over a couple of days and it still is holding up well.
We washed the floor down and allowed it to dry before the first coat to remove all the construction dust and spills and then the two coats were applied 24 hours apart, it was summer and it dried quickly.
The first coat soaks into the concrete really well and the second and or third gives the finish, just applied with a brush around the edges and roller the rest.