too good to be true? Chain Saw sharpening.

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Originally Posted by POD

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

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"The gullet" ... Yep, you've been watching buckin billy too. That guy sure does know which way the merde flows :)

I put the bar in a vice & go around the saw freehand with a cordless angle grinder using a disc that i have suitably profiled & knock off the depth guages as required , Takes about a minuite per side.

works a treat.

Used to sharpen them with a file when they came off hire. It's therapeutic when you're being paid by the hour.[tonguewink]

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

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Originally Posted by sharmy

Some chains sharpen from the top as in the Oregon cs300. I take one of these when I go bush, it has its own inbuilt sharpening stone, you just lift up a leaver for a couple of seconds while it is running and just keep on cutting--great for firewood.

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I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then :)

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

I'm guessing this sharpener needs you to buy specific chains with it then :)

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Yes you do and each new chain comes with a sharpening stone. they are not badly priced if you shop around. I have got a couple out of the UK. There are a number of different ones so I gather other saws use the same set up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by POD

I can't see how that gimmick that grinds the outside of the tooth could be any use, even if it did achieve an edge on the first couple of uses, the tooth would be the wrong shape before long and would not be able to be sharpened again without extensive work on the tooth gullet. I'm thinking yes, too good to be true. It will probably do what it is designed to do- sell several thousand units and make money for the designer.
I've revolutionised my chainsaw experience by learning to use a file properly, after using one of those drop-saw type sharpeners for many years with mixed results.

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I use one of the flat, file holders, with the relevant angles marked on it. I was given a Stihl 'Raise and Lower' type sharpener, but prefer the flat, file holder. I normally give the chain teeth a three-pass touch every tank refill, unless cutting seasoned hardwood, such as old fence posts, power poles etc.
The only issue I have is that i have three saws, with different sized teeth.
One thing I have done is line marked both 45° angles on the top of the work bench, vice jaws. This makes it a little easier when sharpening, as well.

As Tombie said, a new chain is easy, but more expensive. When cutting for a living, quite often a chain roll is available to facilitate production.

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Originally Posted by Saitch

I use one of the flat, file holders, with the relevant angles marked on it. I was given a Stihl 'Raise and Lower' type sharpener, but prefer the flat, file holder. I normally give the chain teeth a three-pass touch every tank refill, unless cutting seasoned hardwood, such as old fence posts, power poles etc.
The only issue I have is that i have three saws, with different sized teeth.
One thing I have done is line marked both 45° angles on the top of the work bench, vice jaws. This makes it a little easier when sharpening, as well.

As Tombie said, a new chain is easy, but more expensive. When cutting for a living, quite often a chain roll is available to facilitate production.

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I just tinker and use the saws aruond the yard. its no big deal to use a file to sharpen my own chains (given its a very rare event .... And I quite enjoy it). My saws are all old junk though. that I'd probably struggle to find chains for.

I picked up a couple of old Italian mccollochs. last one was $10 and appeared to be brand new. the needle and seat were just stuck ... and probably had been from assembly at the factory. I have an ancient old Pro-mac 650 and picked up this little rippa for $50 bucks a few weeks back.

https://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/in...19-jpg.232931/


Its one heavy little beast oleo-mac 284F for $50 bucks. I did get it running, she one grunty little saw. I'm going to throw a carby kit through it before I try cutting wood. so 5 junky old saws here... the only thing they have in common is none share chains or bars ... sigh ....