Quote Originally Posted by Jeff View Post
Thanks guys, for the moment I have filled the gap with duct tape and I took the trailer out today, but I didn't have much weight in it. It was much better than before. I still haven't had time to park on a level piece of ground to check ride height, where I live is very steep and uneven and where I went I had to load up and go quickly.

Most of the bolts I have seen to stop play in the towbar sockets are in the top, but if it works from the underside then I might try that.
I also noticed today that the socket on the Discovery 2 is angled, so I might not be able to use the adjustable towbar from the Defender.

Jeff

As I mentioned it seems the hitch is see-sawing (pivoting) on the retaining pin.

when the tow ball is loaded with the down force of the trailer then the section of the hitch between the pin and the towball is "down" so the adjustment bolt in that section goes on "top" to keep it down.
similarly, if you need to position the adjusting bolt [U]past[U] the pivot point, then drill it in from underneath.

If there is slack both vertically and horizontally between receiver and hitch, same principles apply, but drill and tap the adjustment bolt in at a suitable position at 45deg along the top or bottom edge of the receiver. This locks the hitch accordingly!