Thread: Converting Series 3 rear end into trailer - tech questions

Use the existing chassis, Just Chop the chassis off about inline of just in front of the bulkhead behind the seats.
I sheeted in a section across between the door jambs & makes a handy storage area.

Make an aframe drawbar from 100x50 x 4mm RHS
Use standard suspension AND Shock absorbers

you won't need brakes if the atm is under 750kg, which it will be. It will be plenty light to manoeuvre around.
Far better and MUCH easier and CHEAPER than making a whole trailer chassis & buying a trailer kit.

but you have brakes, i assume your using standard rear axle - makes sense, just get a hydraulic override coupling and you can then go over 750kg.

I took mine to VicRoads and got it registered no questions asked, just call them prior and say your making a home made trailer and you want a VIN , they will give you a number that you can stamp into your compliance plate. probably the same in QLD ?

Any old welder will do you don't need a transmig. if you not confident just tack it together Im sure you will find someone close by to help you out with the welding.

the trailer code is national, you can download it from vicroads.

As suggested, you can use the back end of the Landrover chassis. But if planning an unbraked trailer limited to 750kg, you are carrying around a lot of unnecessary weight that is coming off your payload, and the springs will be too stiff (Take a couple of leaves out), as the back end of a lwb Landrover was designed to carry a payload of 750kg plus part of the weight of three passengers, fuel, engine etc. At the very least I would use a Series 2/2a Rover rear axle, as you can remove the centre entirely, and it is a bolt in swap for the salisbury, except for the prop shaft, which you are not using. If you are not using brakes, ditch the brake drums and backing plate assemblies. If using the Rover springs, keep the shockers.

My feeling would be to make a chassis, but this will probably cost more and may tax your welding (and design) skills. Which way to go will depend on your situation.

John

As said in the first response, cut in front of bulkhead. I made up the a frame by building a box section from plat plate in the same section size as the chassis at that point and taking it forward. Just made it long enough to fit a spare wheel on. Kept springs/shocks std and brakes on hyd overide. Pull the diff (unless you want to carry a spare) and weld a plug in to the axle caps.

I had thought about keeping the diff but it is fitted with a diff lock and would probably be better removed for someone else to enjoy rather than cut up, plus I'd imagine the extra weight even from the empty housing would be a fair amount. I have a pair of rear hubs cut off the last diff I junked, I was going to go with an unbraked trailer with a straight tube axle, whether I take the spindles off the remnants of the rear diff and have them fitted to a tube or get 2 corresponding plates welded on to an axle that I can bolt my spindles onto, I have not decided yet.

The original idea with the springs was to lose a couple of leaves and rebuild them myself with a shorter bolt through the middle, maybe 3 or 4 of the 11 leaves should be sufficient, and lose the shockies (these are stuffed anyway).

Does anyone have photos of similar conversions that might give me ideas?

I will probably post progress pics as I do it, if it gets that far of course. A bit uncertain what to do with the front.

I would fit shockers if you use the Landrover springs. While most light trailers do not have shock absorbers they do have damping provided by, for example, sliding one end of the spring (I have also seen spring loaded clamps on the leaf packs to act as friction dampers). With the spring properly bushed both ends, it will bounce a lot, and you also need to think about what will limit the spring travel when bouncing.

John

I wonder if one could use the existing landrover chassis number as a trailer vin? Probably not I'd imagine?

Originally Posted by pfillery

I had thought about keeping the diff but it is fitted with a diff lock and would probably be better removed for someone else to enjoy rather than cut up, plus I'd imagine the extra weight even from the empty housing would be a fair amount. I have a pair of rear hubs cut off the last diff I junked, I was going to go with an unbraked trailer with a straight tube axle, whether I take the spindles off the remnants of the rear diff and have them fitted to a tube or get 2 corresponding plates welded on to an axle that I can bolt my spindles onto, I have not decided yet.

IRC the QLD rules state that car/vehicle axles cannot be used as trailer axles. A bit silly, but there it is.

Originally Posted by isuzurover

IRC the QLD rules state that car/vehicle axles cannot be used as trailer axles. A bit silly, but there it is.

I was erring more towards making an axle that will fit the series wheels (you can get them with holden, ford or landcruiser hubs so will have to make rather than buy), I think I may take the dimensions in to a welding/fabrication place and have them make it up.

Although I believe that under 750kg there is no inspection process for home made trailers.